Excerpt from a letter
The Middle East has been a real experience – so different from travelling in Europe. The first thing that strikes you is the climate – it’s very hot. In Eilat and Aquaba we experienced temperatures well into 40ºC. There are advantages – one is able to travel really light with just a pair of shorts and a few T shirts (drying washed clothes is an instantaneous affair) – and accommodation is always cheap because all you need is a mattress on the roof (I’ve become addicted to sleeping under the stars).
As you probably know from my postcards, I began my trip by flying into Tel Aviv. After a very short stay (too hot and too modern), I went on to Jerusalem and instantly fell in love with it. Jerusalem is a city that has to be experienced rather than “done”. It is a holy city to Jews, Christians and Muslims, full of extraordinary religious sites and interesting people. The old city is split into four very distinctive segments – Armenian, Christian, Muslim and Jewish – and, of course, the sights and flavours of each are different. It’s amazing how all the religions co-exist in such a concentrated spot. From the roof of my hostel I had a great view of the Christian “Holy Sepulchre”, the site where Jesus is thought to have been crucified. This is probably regarded as the “holiest” site in the Christian religion. No more than 200 metres away I could also see the ‘Dome of the Rock”, an unbelievably beautiful mosque and the third most holy site in the world of the Muslim. Only a hair breath away from here is the “Western Wall”, revered by Jews as their most holy site in the world. NO wonder there are sometimes tensions in Jerusalem. When I was there, everything seemed to be so calm and serene. It was quite a shock when I hears that there had been a bomb blast killing 14 people – particularly considering it went off only a couple of days after I had left Israel. Some of the highlights of my Jerusalem trip included walking along the Via Dolorosa, the road long which Jesus was through to have carried his cross. There are 14 special stations (chapels) along the way commemorating particular events on the journey. I also went to the Western Wall on Shabbat and watched hundreds of Jewish worshippers take part in the sacred tradition – very special. I also climbed up the Olive Mount (famous as the place where Jesus rode into Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday and ascended into heaven on Ascension Day. The views of the city from here were spectacular.
Another interesting excursion was to wade through a watery tunnel deep under the city – really eerie especially considering that it was Jerusalem’s ancient water supply. Needless to say, my shoes were sopping wet – the first thing I did was to visit a mosque so I could take them off and leet them dry. You get quite confused sometimes; when you visit Christian churches you are often only allowed in with trousers on (no baring your hairy legs!). When visiting Jewish holy places, you’ve got to cover your head and sometimes trousers are required. Visit a mosque and your shoes must come off. All the dressing and undressing! Problem was the only trousers I had were jeans – too hot to wear in the climate, so I had to carry them in my bag for when the need arose.
From Jerusalem I explored the Dead Sea in the Negev Desert – a weird experience to say the least. I’m glad I didn’t shave on the morning of my swim as others did – they were in agony from the salt. The mud on the bottom of the sea is supposed to be very good for your skin so we took delight in covering ourselves from head to foot in the stuff – deliciously slimy stuff that took ages to wash off.
Part of the Dead Sea experience included climbing Mascada at 3am in the morning to watch the sunrise and a visit to the beautiful oasis of Ein Gedi. From there to Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee, which I used as a springboard to explore the Golan Heights (north tip of Israel). Compared to the rest of Israel, this area is lush with beautiful rivers and lakes and date trees everywhere. The highlight was swimming in the icy waters of the Bunyan Waterfall.
Then, after some raucous parties in Tiberias (the hostel was very festive!) it was back to Jerusalem for some spiritual renewal. Here I met a friendly Australian guy – Mark. We really clicked and decided to travel through Jordan together. So down to Eliat in Southern Israel, a real touristy hell hole of a place with temperatures over 40ºC and enormous cockroaches in our hostel room. From there we crossed the border into Jordan to Aquaba, and Arab seaside resort where local women are definitely not allowed to wear bikinis. The first thing that strikes everyone about Jordan is how genuinely friendly the people are. Smiles and “welcome” wherever you go. On occasion, locals in the buses insisted on paying our fares for us and taxi drivers bought us drinks. Petra was probably the highlight of my whole trip so far – it has to be seen to be believed. Wherever you look – massive, towering temples and tombs carved out of the cliffs. The postcards I sent will give you a feel – but definitely don’t do it justice.
From Petra we headed north to Amman, the capital of Jordan which we used as a springboard to see all the outlying sights including Jerash (huge Roman ruins), Karak (crusader castle) and we also went for another dip in the Dead Sea, from the east side. This time, all the women were swimming in their black robes. Jordan is a very religious country – devout Muslims everywhere. It is very male dominated and women have to dress conservatively. Western women don’t always have an easy time here – or anywhere for that matter. Unfortunately, because of TV and movies that Jordanians watch, men think that western women are all “free and easy” – easy to seduce and consequently female tourists get hassled a lot, especially if they are alone or wearing revealing clothes. The big advantage is that female tourists travelling alone (or in groups) are always on the look out for tourist males to travel with them – as protection. We, of course, were only too happy to oblige! We travelled for half a week with two gorgeous Dutch girls, and then met up with a fun group of really pretty Italians. You’re never lonely in the Middle East because the culture is so “alien”, tourists tend to be very open and friendly to each other – we constantly bumped into people we had met in other towns and then would travel together for a few days before going our separate ways.
After Jordan we made our way into Egypt. To do so we had to use a ferry across the Red Sea. What an experience it was. Two hours late and crammed so tight with locals there was hardly a place to sit on the open deck –not to mention the problem of the beating sun on the three hour crossing. Drank lots of water. After another two hours in Egyptian customs (you would not believe how inefficient and slow the Egyptian “wheels” turn), we were free to begin our hedonistic lifestyle on the Red Sea.
Travel Notes
Tel Aviv
- Fly to Tel Aviv via Athens. Hot! Meet friendly Australian (Mark). Stay at Gordon Inn.
Lie and swim at beach. Walk to Jaffa. Write post cards.
- Sat 18, catch "sherut" to Jerusalem. Walk round Old City. Armenian Quarter. Mount Zion, including David's Tomb. Visit Olive Mount for panaramic views and holy churches & tombs. Walk along Via Dolorasa - road of sorrow along which Jesus carried the cross. Saw some of 14 stations. Experienced Falafel and Shawerma.
- Impressions: Spirituality hangs in the air like a blanket. Jerusalem. 5000 years old, steeped in history. Mosques, Synagogues and churches within a hairbreath. 18 conquerors + destroyed 7 times. Orthodox jewish in black with side locks bobbing at the Wall. Have to put on jeans for holiest sites - hot!. Put on my cap for Jewish holies, take off for Christian, shoes off for Muslim. Pilgrims carry cross along Via Dolorasa. Religious, kitch relics everywhere including hologram of Jesus on cross with blinking eyes. Night views of city from hostel roof. Israeli baby soldiers with guns. Arab markets along roofed, narrow streets.
- Sun 19, go on mini bus tour (3 oclock get up) to Masada for moonset and sunrise, swim in Dead Sea, walk to waterfalls at Ein Gedi. To Mount of Temptation. Jericho. Quamran where Dead Sea scrolls found. Mountain clinging monasteries. Meet nice british guy (engineer).
- In Jerusalem, visit the Holy Sepulchre, site of Jesus tomb and crucifiction. Church delapidated because no denomination can take responsibility. I write a letter asking for God to show Himself. Sit on hostel roof, overlooking city by night. Call to prayer.
Mon 20, visit St Anne's Church (beautiful Crusader church with great accoustics) and Pool of Bethesda. Then to City of David and Kidron Valley. See Warren's Shaft. Sloth through Hezekiah's Tunnel with little Arab chaps. Absalom's pillar. Then to Temple Mount to see Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque. To Western Wall (and Wilson's Arch) where I leave message. Bobbing orthodox while pray. Black robes and hats. - Tues 21, meet Mark again (Australian I met on first night). For breakfast at Michael's Caffee, then to David's Tower museum for history of Jerusalem.
- Bus to Tiberius where can't get beyond hotels to swim. Stay at Aviv hostel.
- Wed 22, tour to Golan Heights. Befriend Jessica (Canadian) and Miss Margaret (Byzantine historian). Experiences include Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes (6th century mosaics on 4th century foundations), Mount of Beatitudes (sermon on the mount), wine and liquor tasting (pear, lichi etc), Banyas Waterfall, Nimrods's Fortress, museum about Gamla and its destruction by Romans, The Good Fence. Beware of mines signs. Drink pear wine and Thai food with J&B.
- Thurs 23, lazy day swimming in Sea of Galilee. In evening, go out with Jessica and co.
- Fri 24, bus to Beit She'an for amazing Roman and Byzantine excavations - especially amphitheatre. To Jerusalem to Western Wall for evening of Shabat. Lots of bobbing and singing. American Jewish visitors especially charasmatic.
- Impression: Judaism, Christianity and Islam all so linked - same characters, area, "one god" - just different emphasis on which prophets (Jesus, ancient Jewish, Mohammed) to focus on. Huge importance of symbols, rituals, heritage (incl Holy sites) in religion.
Dead Sea scrolls shows how people write blue prints for religion - specifications of battle for final war against enemy. Gospels written hundreds of years after Jesus - vocal legends that amplify? Same with illiterate Muhammed. Definite lessons for my Spirituality which is doing well - whenever feel at peace, I pray to Great Mystery and focus on "Blue Blade."
Huge cemetary on Mount of Olives - when messiah returns, will be first to rise from dead. - Sat 25, meet Mark. To Schindler's grave (rocks) and Soloman's Quarry under Old City. Then to Museum of Israel for archeological finds and Dead Sea Scrolls. Stay in beautiful Lutherine Hostel - a veritable oasis.
- Sun 26, false 4 o'clock get up! Get to watch Jerusalem lighten from the roof.
- Eventually get bus to Eilat. 40 degrees with hot gusts. Stay in shit hole with cockroaches (Eucalyptus). Swim in Red Sea - perfect temperature. Very touristy town.
- Mon 27, laze some more on beach while wait for Mark's visa. Postcard trauma - not put enough stamp on. Dave Hudson off to post office to pay! Phone Mum. Then cross border to Jordon.
- Israel has been fantastic. I have experienced a surge in my spirituality. Tension between two travel instincts - find spiritual oases and experience at length with my heart verse rushing around seeing sights.
- A couple of days after leaving Israel, there is a bomb blast in Jerusalm in Jaffa Street market. Two Arab suicide bombers kill 14 and injure over 100. I bought a chocolate pastery right there. So sad, fundamentalist extremists causing mountains of pain. I get a taste of Jerusalems violent past.
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