EGYPT (4-26 August 1997)

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Dear Mum, Gran, Gramps, Jo and Ant

Hi there! I hope this letter gets to you because the Egyptian postal service is notoriously suspect! Right now I’m in the Sinai desert on the coast of the Gulf of Aquaba (part of the Red Sea). I’m staying at an extremely rustic camp with Robinson Crusoe style grass huts, very basic toilets and nothing else for miles around. A wonderful spot to relax after my hurly burly trip through Israel and Jordan. It gets rather hot here during the day (understatement of the Century!) so we spend our time lazing in the shade with occasional splashes in the sea – which is a deliciously refreshing temperature. There is a huge coral reef here so there is lots to explore. I’m planning to explore the Sinai for at least a week; the scenery is awesome and it’s so cheap. Accommodation is costing me R5 a night. Some people come here for a day or two and end up staying for 6 months. They’re the ones with long beards and smelly armpits. Not for me though – I cannot wait to get to the Nile Valley to see ancient pyramids and temples. From here I intend to make my way to Aswan, then catch a Felucca (Egyptian boat) up the Nile to Luxor (apparently this is an awesome experience) then head north to Cairo. I’d also like to explore some of the desert oases before flying to Athens on 26th August. Three weeks in Greece, then I meet Ally in Istanbul Turkey.

The Middle East has been a real experience – so different from travelling in Europe. The first thing that strikes you is the climate – it’s very hot. In Eilat and Aquaba we experienced temperatures well into 40ºC. There are advantages – one is able to travel really light with just a pair of shorts and a few T shirts (drying washed clothes is an instantaneous affair) – and accommodation is always cheap because all you need is a mattress on the roof (I’ve become addicted to sleeping under the stars).

After Jordan we made our way into Egypt. To do so we had to use a ferry across the Red Sea. What an experience it was. Two hours late and crammed so tight with locals there was hardly a place to sit on the open deck –not to mention the problem of the beating sun on the three hour crossing. Drank lots of water. After another two hours in Egyptian customs (you would not believe how inefficient and slow the Egyptian “wheels” turn), we were free to begin our hedonistic lifestyle on the Red Sea.

I stayed in Nuweyba for a week – really relaxing and quiet with awesome coral reefs. Highlights included swimming with a huge turtle and wild dolphin. Mark left for Cairo – he couldn’t stand the quiet but I soon became really good friends with a wonderful girl from Peru and guy from Holland. We were all really sad to say goodbye when the week was up.
Then to Darhab, also on the Red Sea, where hundreds of young people come to chill out and have fun. The whole place had a 60’s “free” feel and was very festive. The coral reef was spectacular here too – a temporary diversion from all the partying. For some exercise we climbed to the top of Mount Sinai (resisting the temptation to go by camel). We spent the night on top (very cold, but fantastic stars in the night sky). The sunrise was also awesome.

From the Sinai I caught a boat to Hurgada – a mammoth 5-hour journey of buffeting waves. I thought I was going to die of seasickness. From there, an epic bus ride to Aswan to see the famous temple of Abu Simbel and Philae. The Aswan High Dam was a disappointment – I was expecting a huge wall but it wasn’t to be. However seeing the Nile and walking along it was exciting. IN Aswan I met three wonderful girls from Germany and we travelled together for five days. They didn’t speak much English so communication was a real challenge and often hilariously funny. My German has certainly come a long way.

Then another highlight of my trip – I sailed along the Nile to Edfu on a Felucca (a traditional Egyptian sailing boat). The trip took three days and provided glorious scenery and relaxation. Our captain was a really friendly local who made us laugh constantly and my four fellow passengers were also great fun. On the second night, we stopped off at our captain’s village to meet his wife and kids (all 8 of them) and enjoy a simple but delicious Egyptian meal. Food in Egypt is tasty and cheap –but you’ve got to be careful of what and where you eat. Lots of my travelling companions have come down with nasty tummy problems – but I’ve been fine so far (touch wood). Egypt is good training ground for India – where everyone gets sick.

After three lazy days of watching the banks of the Nile goby (and eating, sleeping and temple watching) we arrived at Edfu. From there to Luxor – home of the famous “Valley of the Kings” where the ancient Egyptians buried their Pharaoh in beautiful, colourful tombs carved in the mountain. Lots more impressive ancient temples, too. After bingeing on all the sights, I caught the train (surprisingly luxurious for Egypt) to Cairo. What a mad city! 20,000,000 people living close together, all Egyptians drive like maniacs and love hooting their horns. The only way to escape the noise is to stay in hotels at least 10 floors up. However, it is wonderfully vibrant with teeming shops and markets and lots of interesting sights including the awesome pyramids which have to be seen to be believed. They are huge! The Egyptian museums also provided hours and hours of interest.

Tomorrow I leave Cairo and fly to Athens. I’ve heard lots of good reports about Greece and cannot wait to see it.

So that’s a quick summary of my Middle East travels. It’s been absolutely fantastic – I never realised life could be this exhilarating. I’ve made some wonderful friends and am fast collecting addresses from all over the world.

I’m sorry that my correspondence has been so frugal while I’ve been in Egypt – but I’ve been hearing so many sad tales about the postal service that I decided to rather keep my postcards and send them from Greece. I hope Ally gave you the message that I was alive and kicking.

I hope you guys are well. I think about you all the time on my travels. There are so many things about home that I miss. I’ll try and phone you as soon as I get to Athens.


From Post Cards

Dahab
I spent close to two weeks in the Sinai – exploring the desert and the coral reefs. Nuweiba, the first town I stayed in was rustic and quiet (very relaxing). Then I moved to Dahab, full of young backpackers and rave-up parties all night. It was great experiencing both worlds.

The Wonders of the Red Sea
I spent many fascinating hours snorkelling in the coral reefs of the Red Sea. Spiritual stuff – teeming with brightly coloured fish and sea plants. My best moments were swimming with a huge turtle and then later, a friendly dolphin that loved the company of people.

St Catherine
I climbed all the way to the top of Mt Sinai (a long way!) then slept the night on the top after watching the sunset. Then after a very chilly night, we watched the sunrise and made our way down to the Monastery of St Catherine’s which has a room full of the skulls of dead monks who worked in the monastery through the ages.

Karnak
Karnak is one of the largest remaining temples in the world and very impressive indeed with towering pillars and walks. Just to walk round it takes an hour. Just about every bit of rock making up he temple is covered in hieroglyphics – some of it rather x rated. Karnak is situated in Luxor, a town on the Nile in central Egypt.

The Temple of Queen Hatchepsut
Here is another temple that really impressed me. As you can see, temples look very different at night when they are lit up. It’s great walking around temples at night, not just because of the atmosphere, but also because you don’t have to contend with the sweltering sun. One advantage though of being in Egypt in the hot summer is that there are less tourists.

Aswan
Aswan is a beautiful place – with wonderfully shady walks along the Nile. Thank god for the shade because it can reach 50ºC here. From Aswan we climbed onto a Felucca (traditional sailing boat) and spent three lazy days sailing along the Nile – exploring islands and temples along the way. We ended up in Edfu and then caught a bus to Luxor.

Valley of the Kings
Visiting the pharaoh’s tombs in the Valley of the Kings was one of my biggest highlights. The tombs are built deep into the mountainside (like caves) and the walls are beautifully painted in fresh, bright coloured pictures (like the one shown on the postcard). The entrances to the tombs were originally hidden to deter thieves.

We went through hell to get here, a cramped three and a half hour bus journey through the scorching desert, but it was well worth it. When the Aswan dam was built, this temple was in danger of being swallowed by the rising waters, so organisations from across the world moved it – brick by brick, to a new site (an awe inspiring achievement).

The Temple of Philae
This is one of the stunning temples I visited in Aswan. Yet another temple that they had to move brick by brick when the Aswan dam was built. The temple is now situated on an island in the middle of the Aswan dam. Not surprisingly, the Egyptians charge you a fortune to visit by boat – you really have to be careful in Egypt or you can get really ripped off. Whenever you want to buy something in Egypt, the Egyptians will tell you an exorbitant price and then you have to haggle them down. It’s part of the culture here.

Cairo – The Mehemet Ali Mosque
The Mosques in Cairo are absolutely beautiful, and very old. Many date back to 500AD. I spent a spiritual morning in the Mehmet Ali Mosque feasting my eyes on its stunning architecture and colourful interior. I’ve developed a much stronger understanding of the Muslim religion in the Middle East. It’s great to explore other cultures. It makes you think about things differently.

Cairo
Cairo is a mad city. 20 million people rushing around frantically like ants. Noisy, everyone continually hoots their car horns, chaotic, smelly – but fascinating. We spent hours just walking the streets, mesmerised by all the goings on. Cairo has enormous markets where you can buy anything real cheap. In all, a great place to visit (but not stay too long!).

Giza
Please excuse the kitsch postcard – it was the only one of the pyramids I could find. Postcards in Egypt leave a lot to be desired! The pyramids and sphinx at Giza were fantastic. You wouldn’t believe the size of them. I explored the area on horseback (great fun) and went right deep inside the Great Pyramid – a very eerie experience. Sunset over the area was unforgettable – miraculously we were nearly the only tourists there. It’s great to have finally seen the 7th wonder of the ancient world.

Cairo – the Egyptian Museum
The Egyptian Museum in Cairo was very impressive – a huge building crammed with ancient relics. Tutankhamen’s treasure, including solid gold masks and statues were awe-inspiring. They certainly buried their kings in style! Another highlight was the Mummy Room – full of grinning and shrivelled up bodies of the Great Pharaohs of old. Macabre but fascinating.

This map will give you a basic idea of my trip around Egypt. It was a fascinating country and I made many good friends. My next adventure is Greece. I fly into Athens tomorrow.



Travel Notes


Nuweyba

• No wonder the Jews were in the wilderness for 40 years - they discovered the Sinai, camped on the Red Sea and smoked grass with the Bedouins all day.
• Arrive in Nuweyba, at rustic camp with grass huts and gorgeous beach. We have met some quiet Check girls. The lazy life begins. Sleep on beach to sound of lapping waves.
  Tues 5, lazy day resting and swimming. Mark like a bear with soar head - to slow for him. He has become hyper critical of so much and I feel all self conscious that he is judging everything I say. Life consists of sleeping, eating and swimming.
• Wed 6, another relaxing day. Snorkel on the beautiful reef. Meet South American girl studying "Grunberg technique" in Israel. Beautiful, radiant person - spontaneous and warm.
• Thurs 7, Mark and Stefan leave early. Ariele and I chat. Fantastic snorkeling.
• Fri 8, more snorkeling where I see a turtle - spiritual stuff. Go into town to Dr Sheesh kebab for fantastic pancake and breakfast. Meet our new resident, Dutch actor called "Case". Warm and funny, he is manager of a theatre company. Laze around and go to town for great evening meal at Dr Sheesh. Make friends everywhere we go. Back to camp for joints and fun with camp people (Looka, Maurice). I learn to smoke properly.
• Sat 9, I find someone has been into my sacred wallet and taken my big notes, including my dollars ($300) and travellors cheques.
• Swim with local dolphin - amazing. Scores of swimmers trying to get a touch. With my flippers, I can keep up really well.
• Try to catch bus to Dahab but never arrive. To Chinese restaurant with Case and Ariele - delicious beer. Case has really made an impression.

Dahab

• Sun 10, I go to Dahab. Hot concrete room like an oven. Very touristy but food good. Swim at Blue Hole, 100 m deep hole in shallow coral. Spiritual world of colour and abundant life. See Scorpion and Rock Fish. At 11 pm, I climb Mount Sinai to watch sunrise.
• Mon 11, climb dow and visit St Catherines Monastery. Really tired! Read "All that Remains" - serial killer mystery.
• Tues 12, back to Blue Hole, then eat out on town with friendly british group. Dahab looks good at night with thousands of lights.
• Impressions - bleak drown desert with multi coloured world under sea, slow motion customs officials, buses that never arrive, bus looks for petrol at 11 pm, driving 100 km off route to get it.

Luxor

• Wed 13, catch bus and boat to Hurdada.
• Thurs 14, I allow myself to be forced to hasty taxi experience. To Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple (by night light - fantastic) Get lost travelors cheques but not resolved. Buy illegal alcohol for hotel. Fuluca to Banana Island with Australian - no wind so motor boat pulls us with 5 other boats.
• Fri 15, to West Bank - Valley of Kings (Ramses IV no 2, Ramses VI - amazing) Also to Temple of Ramses III (Habu) and Hatsheput.

Aswan

• Catch train to Aswan, meeting three wonderful girls from E Germany. (Steffi, Danie, Anya).
• Sat 16, walk round city markets, felucca ride to Kitchener Island (botanical island), Elephant Island (museum + temple). Hotel Norhaan is great. Meet Liverpool guy and his Hong Kong wife for supper at Emy's restaurant. Inspiring - they are well over 30 and traveling.
• Sun 17, long trip to Abu Simbel. Eerie desert scenes. Temple amazing, especially considering been moved block by block to new place when dam built. Built into huge mountain which later find is man made - go into center where like space set.
• Temple of Philae on island of Aswan - lose my temper getting a boat. Chill out.
• Unimpressive Aswan dam. Supper with German girls. They have made me feels so welcome - clicked really well.

Felucca trip

• Mon 18, I begin my wonderful felucca trip with Mohammed, warm and friendly. Fello trippers are Keith (British photographer), Midge (German / English marine biology with confused accent) and two german girls (Connie and Ellen). Lazy watching the lush Nile go by - smoking grass. Two rats on board. Washes plates in Nile. Lots of tea. Zig zag along on strong wind. My soul relaxes and soars.
• Tues 19, early morning temple visit, then day of sailing to Mohammed's house in Edfu. Very poor and basic but warm hospitality and lots of filling supper. Excited children everywhere. Smoke Shisha till late, then sleep on boat. I feel absolutely wonderful - must find more experiences like this.

Luxor revisited

• Wed 20, visit Edfu Temple. Then to New Everest Hotel in Luxor. Walk around town with Merge. Awful supper of Sheesh Kebab. Only eat at recommended redtaurants! Night of drinking cinzanno and smoking grass with felucca girls and a smooth, fuckaholic local.
  I have been traveling now for over 4 months. Learned a lot. Have realised experiences and nature are far more important than seeing lots of sights. Do really NB things (eg pyramids), then look beyond the beaten track. Do what is good for soul.
• Impressions: Hassling everywhere. Come into my shop, baksheesh, inflated prices that have to haggle for. Tooting horns, flash lights when pass oncoming car, use both lanes. Egypt is a narrow strip of green in a hot desert, if the Aswan breaks, the whole country will be swamped. Date trees everwhere. Eating always a bit precarious - will I get the runs, tummy cramps, constipation?

Cairo

• Thurs 21, catch train to Cairo. Meet wonderful German chap (Marcus) with gorgeous sense of fun and enthusiasm. Travel Cairo together. Stay at Sun Hotel, smoke grass on roof.
• Fri 22, to awesome Pyramids at Giza. Ripped off by horse rental company but fun galloping. Crawl through inside of 2nd pyramid and walk round Great Pyramid. Walk round Cairo - mad, bustling, tooting city. Great cheap food (noodle dish eaten by locals - Kushuri). Buy vodca from Duty Free and get drunk with Merge, Marcus and Tom etc. on the roof. The security guard and local roof dweller get drunk with us. What a bond alcohol can make!
• Story: Eed. Family in Cairo playing wth goat. Kicking ball against it. Girls playing with hair. Suddenly arrive - father hacking at it - son kicking head round lawn. Put hands in blood and put on walls. All thru town can hear bleating animals. Sheep killed on cars. Turkey neck broken.
• Sat 23, see the Egyptian Museum - King Tutenkamen's treasures awesome. To think he was a small king! Solid gold masks within masks in tomb in tomb (4x). Mummy room very eerie - Egypt's Greats exposed in death. Walk to Bazaar and old Cairo - miles later catch taxi home. Marcus is wonderful - zestful enthusiasm completely infectious.
• Sun 24, to Citadel to see beautiful Muhammed Ali mosque (spiritual, quiet sit inside, then city of Dead - massive cemetary of graves with people living too. Tom came with us - hyper stressed and negative but nice company.
• I'm so enjoying traveling - haven't been lonely for more than a day.
• Mon 25, quiet day at hotel. Tom going mad with impatience to get out of Egypt. Afternoon return to Giza Pyramids to walk round and watch sun set. Fantastic. Shitty ride on horse. Meet great couple (Dutch guy and his Peruvian girlfriend.) Walked around town together getting on famously. Stay awake till early morning.
• Impresions: Mad roads in Cairo, driving in taxi like an Arcade game, hooting. Chap cycling in street with huge box of bread on his head. Kushuri noodles - local restaurant where we gain respect of locals by pouring on the super hot sauce. Locals jump onto moving buses packed like sardines.
• Hassle - always want something - "My sisters birthday tomorrow, buy me drink from Duty Free shop. Come visit my factory. Want to eat something. You my friend. For you - special price."

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Next stop:

Greece