Hi There! I’ve had a fantastic time in Greece during the three weeks I’ve been here. It’s a country where there’s a terrific amount to do and see but most of all I’ve met some really wonderful people who I’ll probably stay in contact with for years to come.
As you know from my phone call, I flew from Cairo to Athens on 26th August. Athens is a pleasant place to visit for a couple of days – but not for staying in too long. I certainly don’t know why they went and gave it the 2004 Olympics! It’s a positive dump compared to Cape Town! The first thing I did in Greece was to gorge myself on Greek salads - it was such a pleasure to not have to worry if it had been washed in dirty water or not. Three weeks in Greece and not a single tummy upset. What a pleasure after the Middle East! I’m doing my best to build myself up before India.
Some of the highlights in and around Athens included visiting the Acropolis and Temple of Poseidon. I inadvertently stumbled onto a nudist beach and was ordered to take my trousers off! I also had some good rambles in the National Garden.
I met a wonderful American chap (Benjamin) and we decided to travel together. Ben was a very interesting travel mate – he absolutely adores women of every nationality and is the smoothest charmer I’ve ever met. So I learned some great tips and there were always gorgeous women flocking about. Ally would definitely not have been impressed !
From Athens we went to the “Oracle of Delphi” situated high in beautiful mountains. We met two wonderful Dutch girls and a Spanish guy and spent the night chatting and drinking ouzo. Ouzo is the national drink of Greece and with over 50% alcohol content, has a potent kick.
After visiting the ancient ruins of Delphi (spectacular views), we headed for Meteora. This is one of the most extraordinary places I’ve ever seen with enormous boulders (the size of mountains) towering into the sky with monasteries perched precariously on top. Really beautiful – we hiked for ages visiting the monasteries and taking in the breathtaking scenery.
Then to the lush and beautiful Island of Corfu – voted by many as Greece’s loveliest island. We stayed at “The Pink Palace” – infamous amongst backpackers for its bohemian parties. Certainly lived up to expectations – on the one night we had a toga party (everyone had to wear a thin sheet and nothing else). By the end of the night, there were a lot of nude people dancing. So this is what I missed out on in my youth!
In between all the raucous parties (occupying the entire night), I relaxed by playing volleyball, swimming, visiting nearby islands and mopedding on a scooter around Corfu. It was a great time but after a week I’d had more than enough so headed for some spiritual renewal at Mount Olympus. This is Greece’s highest mountain and I was determined to get to the top. I met up with some fantastic people – Russell (New Zealander), Kate (American) and Donna (Canadian) and together we made our ascent. It took two days – tough going with our packs but the views from the 3,000 metre high summit made it very worthwhile indeed. Russell has been back packing for two and a half years around the world and is full of tips and stories – so we all learned an extraordinary amount from him. He travels with the tiniest pack you’ve ever seen – with only one shirt and three changes of underwear. I haven’t quite got to that stage yet! Still got underpants for each day of the week. Since travelling with Russell and co., we’ve really been roughing it – sleeping in the mountains and parks. You won’t believe how cheap it’s been! However, I’m looking forward to living it up a little bit more in Turkey.
Inspired by our success on Mount Olympus, we decided to hike the Vicos Gorge – the world’s narrowest, deepest gorge. This took us two days and once again, the scenery was awe inspiring. The only really tough bits were climbing into and out of the gorge (900 metres) but Kate has a gorgeous singing voice and her cheerful voice got us through!
Right now I’m in Thesalonika. Russell and Kate are coming with me to Turkey where we’ll meet up with Ally. Our bus leaves at 2:30am this morning so we are lazing for hours in the bus station. On the way to Istanbul we plan to visit Troy and Gallipoli. I cannot wait to find out what’s round the next corner. I absolutely love the travel thing and am having the time of my life.
It was so great hearing your voices in Athens. Jo, I had trouble getting through to you but I’ll try and phone you during the next few days. I hope you’re all well. The one big disadvantage of being here is that I’m missing you all like crazy. Mu, are you still playing bridge and croquet? How are Liz and Barbara, etc? How is your job going? Gran and Gramps – I really miss popping over for those delicious Sunday lunches. Have you been to see any good movies lately? I haven’t seen a movie in over three months! I’m going to have lots of catching up to do when I get home! Gramps, how is the bowls coming along? Jo and Ant, how is married life treating you? Jo, I hope your nursing is going well – you don’t have much longer to go now! Ant, I hope work is going o.k. Have you guys had any more nice weekends away?
We’re off to get a bite to eat so I must say goodbye. I hope you enjoy the postcards. I’ll write again soon from Turkey.
Chow
From Postcards
Athens
Athens is a nice place to see for a day or two but that’s enough. It has some impressive ancient ruins, especially the Acropolis. It also has a huge National Garden with lots of shady places to sleep. The food here is fantastic, especially after Egypt where I always had to be so careful. I’ve been stuffing myself on Greek salad and lamb since I arrived.
Acropolis
The Acropolis is the most famous landmark in Athens. Really impressive – especially at sunset. I met a really nice American guy here – and we’ve decided to travel together. That’s what I enjoy most about travelling – you’re forever meeting exciting new people. My Middle East and Greece trip is into its 8th week and I haven’t been lonely for a single day of that.
Sounio
Ah, this was a beautiful place. The sunset over the Mediterranean was spectacular. I met a wonderful group of people here – our travelling “caravan” just keeps getting bigger. I went for a swim in a secluded cove nearby – only to discover it was a nudist colony and bathing costumes were not allowed. I made sure to use lots of sun tan cream!
Delphi
This was a very interesting ancient ruin that we visited. Situated high in the mountains, it looks down onto an exquisite valley. In ancient times, 1,000’s of pilgrims would flock here to hear the prophecies of the “oracle” – an old woman who would inhale vaporous fumes and speak gibberish (which would then be translated by a priest). No guessing who had all the influence in those days.
Meteora
Meteora was unforgettable. Huge towering rocks reaching for the sky with monasteries perched precariously on top. We hiked for hours exploring the area and visiting all the monasteries. So peaceful and serene. The priests who stay here live quiet lives of meditation and prayer. Tourists (especially women) have to cover from head to foot so as not to distract them.
In the old days the only way to get to the monastery was to be hauled up by ropes. One of the priests was asked how they knew when to change the rope. He replied “when god sees fit to break it’ that’s when we change it”.
This is the village in Meteora where we stayed. If I ever need a place to recuperate or write a book etc, I’ll come here. It’s one of those places where days just merge into days.
Corfu
Sun, sex and souvlaki is what Corfu is all about. It’s Greece’s most beautiful island – but also home to wild parties and nightlife. I loved it here! Spent eight nights living life to the full – meeting fantastic people.
In Corfu I stayed in a place called the Pink Palace. This postcard shows the stretch of beach on which the resort is situated. Although it’s moving to autumn here in Greece, the weather has been fantastic.
During the days we often hired mopeds (scooters) and explored the island – a myriad of lush forests, mountains and beaches. Another highlight was jumping off a beautiful cliff into the sea (65 feet high!).
Travel Notes
Athens
- Tues 26, catch early taxi to airport and fly to Athens. Phone Mum, Gran and Gramps. Gran is getting very frail - has to have a night nurse. I hope she is going to be OK. Walk round and sleep in National Gardens. Then visit Parthenon where watch sun set. Spiritual. Chat with Brazilian girl I met at airport (Raphael). I'm trying to be always the first to say hello, inspired by Marcus.
- Wed 27, late get up. Visit Cape Sounion to watch sun set at Temple of Psoedian. Swim in sea. Spiritual place. Scenic bus ride. Meet Raphael again at Psoedian with Brazilian friend and American chap (Benjamin). We all get on famously. Late supper at oldest Taverna in Greece. Then get beers and watch lights of Athens till 5 am. Raphael hits on Ben and kisses him when I leave.
- Thurs 28, Ben and I say goodbye to Raphael. We head to Delphi (miss bus). Meet two lovely Dutch girls and Spanish guy (with smelly socks) who we click with. Restarant and drink ouzo (drunk!) till late.
- Visit Delphi where oracle (old woman) would inhale vapourous fumes and shout gibberish to be translatted by priest. Millions of Pilgrims in Ancient World would come for help. Priest had the power! Museum. Awesome views.
- Walk to swimmng pool with Dutch girls but no go. Series of buses to Meteora. Catch series of buses to Meteora. Ben is girl mad (or is he?) - real cool guy.
- Bus to Meteora. Awesome towering rocks with monasteries perched on top. At top of first monastery, I really feel the presence of the Great Mystery as I look out at the view. In old days, taken up by ropes and baskets. "When do you change the rope. When God feels fit to break it."
- Walk from monastery to monastery. Great views. Meet Swiss girl. Ben singing country songs. Luxury hotel with breakfast for £6.
- Meet Joel - creatively weird with deadlocks but very sensitive and full of humility and love. Bus and ferry to Corfu. Everyone drunk all time. Trip to Cucumber Island - free beer if jump 65 feet naked. Flap arms but then cup balls at last minute.
- Volleyball - girls win points if serve topless.
- Ben flyfishes. Breakfast and supper included. Disco where drinking games and everyone smashed. Topless bathing. Staff friendly but hate Sir George, the gruff Greek boss. Meet three nice guys and go Mopeding. Exilerating freedom till one of bikes breaks down. Very green island with gorgeous blue sea.
- Princess Di dies in car accident - cannot believe it.
- Joel gets off with a stunning Scottish girl. He leaves and I become friends with her.
I meet Carolyn, a very talkative girl (Carolyn) from Los Angeles. Quite fun but only in smalll doses. - Impressions - Israeli chap who dances like a dream - full on karate type moves. Lots of space of floor. Jumping off cliff, free beer if naked, cup balls at last minute, bravado jump to surface real quiet, Jesus rock, drunken volleyball with topless serving to win points -
Swim to raft out to sea - further than thought, but saw people on it. Kayak.
Greek plates broken on our heads, beer races and ouzo circle, ten most told lies "Only stay one night, Leave tomorrow - really, amazing convenience - with pink card as passport, too much effort to leave because steep walk out in backpack at 7 am, Dr George - the shitty owner who picks up table, chair and beers up with his teeth, friendly staff who get drunk every night, Corfu cough. - My dancing is coming along - no more sideways shuffle, now more subtle. Got free Island excursion, Moped and T shirt!!
- Mon 8 - I leave Pink Palace with Kate (American) and Donna (Canadian). We meet Russel ( New Zealand) and head for Vicos Gorge, deepest and narrowest gorge in world (Guiness Book of Records). Arrive at Monodendri to find no supermarket or anything. Hike down into Gorge where sleep night under stars.
- Kate is beautiful, spiritual girl into Yoga and witchcraft - smells her food + always gives thanks. She is an ex alcoholic, her father a famous creative designer from Hollywood. Inspiring how she has turned her life around. Kate really perves after Russel - till discover he is a committed Christian. He is fantastic guy, been away from home 2 years and eight months. Donna is very negative, - turns out she has Chrones disease. I realise how shallow most of our transactons with most people really are, I want to focus on opening up connections early on - far more powerful than having lots to say.
- I really excel with my stories, Kate is in hysterics and says I am funniest story teller she has ever met. Quotes also go down very well.
- Walk along Vicos Gorge is beautiful and impressive - pity about no water - altho we manage a skinny dip at the end of the day. Spring water and wild berries. Walk only 6 km to Vicos (suprise), sleep on hill, catch bus to Meteora.
- We go to Meteora where stay in Kalambaka where stay on roof in hotel. Walk to monasteries again. Donna leaves that night on train - now we are down to three.
- We travel to Lithoro - skinny dip in sea - then hitch to town, shop for food and head off into Mount Olympus. Walk 4 km into mountain where sleep on side of road. Early morning hitch up to beginning of path. Heavy trek up to Youth Hostel and beyond where sleep night. I have good meditation session on mountain peak, then cannot find my way back.
- Kate, Russel and I get on famously. Russel is "the backpacker" - a veritable Mc Guyver, cut shirt, strap on torch, tiniest poack ever seen, all the right gear and no more. Laid back and stong in his faith. Never uppity.
- Sun 14, we climb mountain to very top - to flag and comment book. Great scenery (3000m high) - then walk to Refuge A for chocolate and a very enjoyable walk down to the parking lot. Hitch to catch bakkie down to Lothoro for great supper of moussaka (eggplant pie) and Greek Salad. Mmmm! I love our group - we are getting so close. I am getting excited about Ally coming too. Another night in the woods - starting to smell real bad!
- My neck has been unbelievable for just about the whole middle east trip. What a difference!
- Catch bus to Thesaloniki - arrive 9 am. Bus to Canakkale ( Turkey) only leaves 2 30 am.
- Long wait - make friends with friendly British guy (Philip) making his way overland on £350.
Next Stop:
Turkey
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