Life Trove: INDIA (7 November

...exploring Kashmir, Agra, Keoladeo Ghana National Park, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Uidaipur and Delhi.

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From Post Cards

Srinagar

Hi there – greetings from India! Ally and I flew into the hurly burly, chaotic, noisy, smelly world of Delhi – and grabbed the first opportunity to get the hell out and took a persuasive travel agent’s package to Kashmir, in the North of India. The region used to be India’s premier tourist destination due to its breathtaking scenery – before it was struck by political instability. Now that things have quietened down, tourists are starting to trickle back again. We stayed on houseboats in the town of Srinagar, known as the Venice of the North because of its vast network of beautiful rivers and lakes – set against a soaring high, snow capped mountain backdrop. The temperature was predictably chilly, especially at night, but we had hot water bottles and wood heaters to keep us snug.

We spent a wonderful day exploring the lakes and rivers in a local “gondola”. The majority of the town folk live and set up shop on the rivers in boats – so the river forms an intricate system of roads and cul de sacs with fascinating sights at every turn. Kashmir is famous for its crafts – including hand knotted carpets (the silk ones were exquisite), wood carvings, hand made furniture and beautifully painted paper mache objects – so there was lots of perusing to be done in the shops and factories (although we did not buy because of the “backpackers handicap”!). Kashmir is also well known for its delicious honey – fresh from the hive – so we got to do some tasting of the vast selection of flavours available – including lily, lotus, saffron and opium (what a kick!) For the rest of the journey we laid back in luxury while our personal oarsman took us through the lakes – listening to the splash of the oars and gawking at the scenery.

Hazratbal Mosque

One of the stops on our river trips was the White Mosque – the grandest and most spiritually important mosque in Kashmir. Because of the tensions between the local Muslims and the Indian government, the mosque is heavily guarded by soldiers and you are only permitted in after an intensive body search. If they discover suspicious articles (or the fact that you are female – men only permitted) then you get very short shift. At first my bird binoculars caused a bit of consternation but then the playful and curious spirit took over and soon everyone was having a “look through” and chuckling with glee and the magnified images.

Zaina Kadal Bridge

Here’s a picture of the “old city” sections of Srinagar. Quaint old buildings and rickety bridges. It is tragic how seven years of instability in the region has devastated the previously booming tourist industry. Over a hundred “hotel boats” lie dilapidated and vacant along the river and many of the craft shops are boarded up, waiting for summer days. Tourists are beginning to return again but it will be years before the floodgates open again. For us though, the lack of tourists was great – it was quiet and tranquil and we enjoyed intimate glimpses into the traditional lives of the local people.

Chandanwari – Pahalgan – Kashmir

A wonderland of green Christmas trees, torrential rivers, glaciers, soaring eagles and towering peaks covered in snow. This is the world that awaited us in the mountains of Kashmir. We walked for miles along the valleys – at times trampling through snow – and always careful not to slip on the icy paths. This was the first time Ally and I had experienced real, thick snow close up and we had a ball, to the wide eyed amazement of our guide who has grown up with snow and thinks of it as a mundane nuisance. First we made “snow angels” by lying back in the snow to leave our body imprints and flapping our arms to make wings. Then we created a snowman with an enormous hunk of a nose. All this was completed with a delicious snow fight that left our hands tingling with cold.

Agra

From Srinagar we made our way south to Agra – an epic bus and train journey of over 35 hours. The night train ride was hell – there were no sleeper tickets available so we had to sleep on the smelly, crowded floor while the locals slept in luxury on the padded bunk beds. We got trampled every time someone needed the loo – the smell of which became pervasively more revolting as the night progressed. The 14 hour train journey cost us the princely sum of 2 English Pounds! We arrived in Agra and collapsed in our hotel beds after a warm meal and shower –brimming with anticipation about seeing Agra’s jewel – the Taj Mahal – the following day.

The Taj Mahal is famous across the world as the most beautiful building the world – visited by royalty, painted by artists, extolled by poets, gushed over by millions of tourists. Knowing this, we were full of expectation but nothing could prepare us for the exquisite beauty of this monument. We visited at dawn, when the grounds were quiet and tranquil and watched the marble of the Taj change shade a hundred times from a subtle pink to shimmering white as the sun rose across the sky. The gardens of the Taj are the best kept in India – the perfect setting for the “poem in marble”. A cherry on the top was that the gardens were home to wild rose ringed parakeets – a bird I had never seen before.

I’m really glad we arrived early. As the morning progressed, the grounds had started to fill with locals and tourists until it was almost difficult to move.

The Taj Mahal is a monument to love. The story behind it is as follows: Emperor Shah Jahan was absolutely devastated when his beloved wife (he had many but she was his favourite!) died during childbirth. In his grief, he set his mind to creating a fitting monument in her memory – and lay her tomb at the centre. No expense was spared – only the very best of India’s artists, architects, tradesmen and materials were employed. And so the Taj Mahal was built. Soon after, the emperor’s son seized the throne and imprisoned his father in the Agra Fort. The emperor spent the last years of his life staring wistfully from his window bars at the Taj Mahal in the distance. After his death, he was buried next to his beloved wife. The beautiful marble in the photo gives an idea of the beautiful decorations inside the Taj.

Next we explored the Agra Fort – also one of India’s most magnificent monuments. From the top we enjoyed wonderful views of the Taj Mahal in its setting on the backs of a wide river. We befriended an Indian honeymoon couple, also sightseeing, and we all took lots of photos of each other. When you’re travelling as a couple, you’re forever asking other tourists to take a picture of you together! All in all, the Agra Fort was impressive but I was surprised and sad to see how run down it was in places. I would have expected the Indians to take better care of this proud heritage of theirs.

Agra Fort is a huge complex of palaces and rooms, each done in an individual style. There were separate quarters for men and women. The ladies quarters were built in marble with pretty flourishes and colourful inlays. The men, in good old masculine style, had grand and imposing red sandstone structures. Think I would have opted for the ladies quarters – most aesthetic and definitely more interesting in the days of the harem!

We stayed by the park for two days in a friendly little guesthouse called “The Falcon”. Each morning we’d wake up at sparrow fart, grab the hotel’s identification book and head off into the mosquito infested wilds (protected by Tabbard and malaria tablets!) for an orgy of bird stalking. It was at this time that I discovered the rue depths of Ally’s love! We saw storks, bee-eaters, ducks, owls, mynahs, coucals, eagles and kingfishers, to name a few. In all, I saw over 50 new species of birds. My life goal is to see 2,000 bird species in the wild – and I’m slowly getting there. Latest count = 600.

Keoladeo Ghana National Park

From Agra we travelled to the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, India’s most famous bird sanctuary, and many experts say the best Bird Park in all of Asia. A lush world of water, reeds and woodland, Keoladeo serves as a pit stop for hundreds of thousands of birds on their migratory journeys south. November is the best time of year to be there (bull’s eye!) Needless to say, as a passionate “twitcher”, I was in heaven!

I spent a wonderful afternoon with a guide being taken round all the less accessible parts of the park. He had worked at the park for 25 years and knew every inch of the land and every bird. The other guides called him “Master” out of respect for him – their teacher. He charged R10 an hour for his service, 2/3 more than the others, but by god it was worth it! Not only was he brilliant but he had a great sense of humour and I kept having to try not to laugh and chase the birds away.

Jaipur

Next stop was Jaipur, famous for its Pink City – painted in bright pink shades. The architecture is stunning – simple yet elegant – and the city’s jewel, the Pink Palace, set right in the centre, is exquisite. The photo shows one of the courtyards in the Palace. Jaipur still has a living Maharaja who resides in the Palace. Apparently he is a wonderfully friendly chap and loves guests (even smelly backpackers!), although, of course, a reservation is required. However, our travel clothes are starting to get a bit threadbare and I did not bring my tux, so we opted to give the royal family a miss.

This pot (made of pure silver) is famous. Situated in the Palace, it stars in the Guinness Book of Records as the biggest single piece of silver in the world. It weighs 845kgs and holds 9,000 litres of water. A Maharaja used the pot to transport holy water from the Ganges to London by ship. Why the Londoners would want this, I do not know, it would be enough to give the entire city the runs for a month!

Here is a photo of the most beautiful door (or so we thought!) in the whole place – known rather aptly as the “Peacock Door”. Peacocks are indigenous to India. It’s amazing to see them in the wild after always seeing them in the zoo before.

The 18th century Maharaja was a keen astronomer and had his own personal observatory built – a very interesting place. Using huge concrete instruments, they could measure the distance between the earth and the moon and other complicated things. They had a sundial too that was only 10 minutes slow. What’s ten minutes between a sundial and Greenwich Meridian time?

A colourful street scene in Jaipur. All the streets bustle with frenetic activity as hawkers ply their trades and traffic whizzes to and fro. The traffic system in all of India is more chaotic than you could ever imagine. Everyone drives with their horns, and not their brakes. Stop signs and traffic lights are unheard of. To add spice to the situation, cows and monkeys roam the streets. Cows are holy here – if you hit a cow you get jailed longer than for manslaughter – so the cows know they are safe and sometimes even lie down in the middle of the road with traffic on either side – mooing in contempt at the honking horns.

Our next stop was the beautiful desert town of Jaisalmer. We found a budget hotel high up in the walls of an ancient fort with spectacular views across the desert. The fort was choc a block full of Hindu temples, sacred cows, cute houses, delicious restaurants and a beautiful palace – so there was plenty to explore.

Another view of the fort from the Markets below. Unfortunately, I came down with a nasty fever, the cause of which was never really determined, so I lay low for a couple of days. Ally spent lots of time shopping. Jaisalmer is a budget shopping paradise for clothing – I got some great cotton pants for less than R10!

Vastupala Temple

The Hindu Temples in India are beautiful, with ornate rock carvings everywhere and watched over by little idols sitting in the lotus position. The Hindu religion is very different to anything I’ve come across before and very complicated to understand. The Hindus worship a whole range of different Gods, all with long tongue twisting names and each with its own personality and background. I’m very glad I didn’t have to go to Hindu Sunday School! It must have been hard work.

Here is a photo of the Royal Palace of the former Maharaja of Jaisalmer. It was enormous inside with beautifully decorated rooms and hanging balconies. The Maharajas certainly knew how to live in style.

From Jaisalmer we did a three day camel safari through the desert. I soon learned that I had muscles I didn’t know existed and that camels are not as placid and good-natured as they look! But we had a great time watching the scenery go by, eating food cooked on the fire and sleeping under the stars.

One of the camels, poor wretched soul, was branded on the hind leg with a hot poker in front of our shocked eyes. When we asked why, we were told it was to cure a scorpi8on bite on his front foot. Superstitious crap – and really sad for the tortured animal. They are such beautiful animals with huge eyes (fringed by long lashes) that show it all – stoic acceptance of their heavy lot in life. Poor Ally got very sick on the final day from food poisoning (not surprising really) and her camel had to do continuous press ups to let her get off to throw up. We hiked to the nearest village and were picked up early. By the next day Ally was fine again.

While in the desert on our camels we passed through several tiny villages. Because we were well off the beaten tourist track, we got to see the locals leading traditional lives. They were very friendly and invited us into their homes. A highlight was listening to an old man playing a traditional musical instrument that he had hand crafted himself.

Udaipur

Udaipur was, without doubt, my favourite city in India. Situated around a beautiful network of blue lakes, it is a tranquil and romantic place where time seems to stand still. We hired bicycles and rode around the lakes, enjoying the scenery (and the abundant bird life) and getting some much needed exercise. The food in the area is particularly delicious – traditional home cooked dishes wherever you go.

One of the jewels of Udaipur is its palace – yet another testament to the past glory of the Maharajas. We spent several hours exploring its labyrinth of rooms and courtyards. The walls in the men’s section are lined with hundreds of paintings depicting hunting scenes. In each, the Maharaja (with a saintly halo on his head) is seen dispatching yet another tiger with his faithful gun. Not surprising the beautiful tiger has become so endangered!

One of the most beautiful artworks in the palace is this exquisite peacock crafted from over three thousand individual pieces of glass.

The lake was dotted with several island temples – most of them built so that they appear to rise “ghost like” out of the water. They really add to the atmosphere of the beautiful place.

We negotiated with a rickshaw driver to take us up an amazingly steep road into the mountains to a dilapidated but still beautiful Mousoon Palace. The palace is famous as one of the settings of an old James Bond movie – Octopussy. We paid a little bit of bribe money (baksheesh) and were let into the palace grounds. From its balcony we enjoyed the most spectacular sunset of our lives – it was a very special and romantic experience.

Another of the settings of the James Bond movie is the Lake Palace – famous as one of the most prestigious hotels in the world. With its romantic setting in the middle of the lake, how can it lose? This is where James Bond enjoyed a shaken martini and seduced the heroine. The Lake Palace does a buffet lunch for 10 pounds a head, so Ally and I decided to splurge – and we’re so glad we did! The food was unbelievable, the setting stunning and we were pampered from start to finish.

Here is the courtyard where we sipped our coffee after our meal. Isn’t it exquisite? We had to laugh though, the hotel hires a chap who walks around the courtyard all day with a long piece of rope. It’s his full time job to scare the pigeons away if they land on anything. Dad should have hired such a person at Melkbos!

The women in India are beautiful. They were vibrantly coloured saris and are always full of happy smiles. It is such a refreshing change after the rather oppressive world of the Middle East where so many women have to cover themselves from head to foot in black robes – lest they distract the men from their pure and godly thoughts.

I’ve changed my image, my hairstyle and clothes, inspired by an Indian chap like the one in the photo (only kidding!). India is full of weird and wonderful types – ascetics who give up all their worldly possessions to follow their spiritual path. India, I have heard more than once, is where the American hippie movement originated.

India abounds in miniature art. Much of it is saucily erotic. Paintings of the Kama Sutra can be found wherever you go. Miniature art is sold in many of the shops – often at ridiculously cheap prices. For example, the peacock I have included takes 4 hours to paint, yet costs less than R3. Ally was very excited. She reckons that if she can buy wholesale bulk at ½ price, there could be great potential here for her cards.

Letter dated 20/11/97

Greetings from the exotic land of India! We’re having an absolutely fantastic time. I have fallen in love with the chaotic, beautiful, noisy, tranquil, at times infuriating, delightful mix of a country. Paradoxes and constraints at each and every turn.

After 10 days of recuperation in London, we flew to Delhi. Shock attack! Take Khayelitcha squatter camp, double the number of beggars (many of whom were grotesquely deformed), triple the traffic, quadruple the cows and goats wondering the pavements and you will get a feel for Delhi’s main road (on a quiet day!).

We jumped at the first opportunity to get the hell out – a 5 day grip to Kashmir in Northern India. One of the most scenically spectacular regions in India, Kashmir is once again becoming a popular tourist destination as its political instabilities die down. We lived on a boathouse in a gorgeous town called Srinagar, known as the “Venice of the North” because of its vast network of rivers and lakes – set against a snow capped mountain backdrop. We spent our days paddling the waterways and trampling through the snow in the mountain valleys. All in all, a great experience, except we were ripped off a bit price wise.

Then we embarked on an epic journey (36 hours by bus and train) to Agra. The train journey through the night was a hell ride – there were no “bed tickets” available so we ended up sleeping on the floor in the aisles (getting regularly kicked as peop0le went to the toilet) while the Indians slept in luxury on the bunks!

The highlight of the Agra was the Taj Mahal – celebrated by many as the most beautiful building in the world. A veritable poem in marble. We visited at dawn and watched it change colour as the sun rose. Spiritual stuff.

Our next stop was Bharatpur where we explored the richest bird sanctuary in all of Asia – a wetland used by hundreds of thousands of migratory birds as a resting resort on their flight south for the winter. Our three days here rekindled my passion for bird watching with a vengeance – I saw over 50 new species of birds and got fit in the process. Lots of bicycle riding!

Then on to Jaipur famous for its pink city – gorgeous architecture adorned in pink shades. The palace was particularly impressive – a testimony to the opulent wealth of the Indian Maharajas of old, although it is now becoming bit run down.

Then a 15 hour bus journey and we arrived in Jaisalmer, a quaint town in the middle of the desert. Unfortunately, I fell prey to the “Indian runs” and felt very poorly indeed for a day with a high fever, but today I’m feeling like a new person.

The day after next, we venture off into the desert on a camel safari, should be great fun sleeping under the stars. So, that’s a quick overview of our Indian adventure so far. I’ve bought tons of postcards and have added lots of commentary – but will only send them from a major city from where they are more likely to arrive. I hope you guys are all well. I miss you all terribly – it’s not too much longer before I will see you all again. Mum, it was great to hear your voice the other day and talk to Trish. Ciao for now everyone, I’ll talk to you again soon.

All my love
Graeme

My Travel Notes

Delhi

Sat 8: Arrive at Delhi airport. Catch bus to railway station. Best meditation ever on bus. I feel more at peace than ever, despite frenetic chaos of city. Exhileration on rickshaw ride.
We didn't read "Lets Go" so rickshaw driver persuaded us that tickets must be bought elsewhere. Rickshaw takes us to travel agent but we realise. So he takes us to another. I let my intuition be squashed and we are persuaded that the trains in Rajistan are full because of festival - we would be better of in Kasmir - the most dangerous part of India. Lambs to the slaughter! So now I am as tense as hell. Didn't trust our instincts, did not make rational decision because were tired and rushed. Spend night in Delhi. Go for walk about in mad city to find food. Meet Dutch couple. They take us to buffet supper.
Impressions: People everywhere, living on streets, in pipes etc. Traffic beserk, hooting, carts, cars, rickshaws. Filthy, mud, dust, smog. Public toilets are makeshift with sewage flowing out, people wash their clothes and selves in street. Beggars everywhere, some terribly disabled with twisted limbs. Markets everywhere. Packed subways under streets. Indians have long nail for picking nose and toilet. Barbers click your neck when you least expect it.

Kashmir

Sun 9: Fly to Shrinagar with Air India. Soldiers everywhere - one for each Kashmir local. Drive to houseboat - the wrong one first. Teeming with rain. Our two German companions are nice. We meet the smarmy owner and he wants 400 dollars for taking us round. Suckers. We already pay close to 1000 rupees for room and food - three times what it should be. We get him down to $200. Germans paid double what we did.
Impressions: Handmade furniture, Kashmir tea, hot wood heaters, hot water bottles, cold! Personal servants to bring us tea and supper and put us to bed. Food is tasty vegetarian dishes.
Mon 10: Go on boat trip round the waterways with our personal paddler. Venice of the North. Shops and houses on boats and stilted houses. Sit back on cushions in relaxed luxury. Revolting packed lunch of rotten banana and egg. See arts and crafts and honey shop. Watery backstreets and wide open lakes, with spectatcular snow capped mountain backdrop.
Visit white Mosque - most important mosque in Kashmir - we are searched to go ino grounds - binoculars cause much attention. Ally not allowed in mosque. Walk through streets of village but aren't bave enough to buy and eat anything. Beautiful birds - kites, green kingfishers, common kingfishers, crows.
Paddler offers us tea. Hear splashes - look behind to see him with cups in river. Where is tea water coming from? Pees at back.
Over a hundred hotel boats vacant along the rivers - the violence has destroyed tourism. It must have been thriving before. War! Why! Muslims clamped down on city, but do not know if want Independence, India or Pakistan. One Indian soldier for each local. We feel relatively safe but all guidebooks warn against coming here. Major advantage - we just about have the place to ourselves. Beautiful place - just a pity about being ripped off. Positive: Great experience and lesson all at once.
Tues 11: A 2.5 hour taxi journey to the mountain summits. Too much snow to see the glacier, so we walk along the road. Fresh snow everywhere, lacing the beautiful trees and valleys - and road! Ice is slippery. Warm when we emerge into the sun. Sunny, blue skies. Our "personal helper" comes along - and we all hold hands on the way back to keep steady. Villages being vacated for the winter. Our first real experience of high, snow mountains (besides Switzerland).
Rickshaw driving - like mosquito. Buses don't stop at depots, so men have to jump on. Rickshaws want commission like hungry flies.
Wed 12: Sleep late. Paddle ourselves along the lake in a boat.
Go to carpet shop - very interesting. Over a million knots in a carpet. Beautiful silk samples.
I am reading "Power and Glory" by John Kehoe. I am amazed how much I have subcontiously remembered and internalised. Now I am getting brilliant new insights. I am determined to make my spiritual life my central core .

The Epic Journey

Thurs 13: Catch battered minibus to Jammu. German girl (with deadlocks and nose ring) and Ally have been double booked - lots of tears and fireworks from her when she ends up on decrepid seat. But rude, so we do not offer to share. Beautiful scenery as we drive through Kashmere Valley - the narrow road allows one traffic flow because of damage, traffic to and from on alternative days. Bus journey takes 12 hours. Risky cheesy supper from side of road. Arrive Jammu in dark. Only available train is Delhi - sitting! Manage to smuggle ourselves into sleeper coach and take illegal occupation of bunks.
Fri 14: Middle of night, rude awakening - thrown off by family, so we sleep and so we tourists slum it on floor while Indians sleep in luxury. Family of women (5 generations) sing songs.
Chat to fiendly locals. Turns out of German dreadlocks paid for 4 weeks of meditation in Kashmir with flight - arrived to find nothing. Locked in her room. She did not bring book - relying on her stream of consciousness to help her. Olivier, the hilarious Frenchman and Dutch couple - we were all ripped of in Kashmir.
Arrive in Delhi and organise to extend our tickets to Agra. Try to nourish ourselves with peanut brittle and local soft drinks. In Agra, we catch taxi to Sheela Hotel - luxury, quiet with hot water. Ahhhh! Go to Kwality restaurant for an orgasmic meal of hot - very hot - curry. Hunger is the best sauce! Do some shopping - cheap bookshop.

The Taj Mahal

Sat 15: Awake at dawn to see Taj Mahal. Most beautiful building I've ever seen. Changing colour as the sun rises. Perfect symetry and shapes. The background: Emperor was devastated when his favourite wife died in childbirth. He decided to build a fitting monument to his beloved - best of everything. Best artists and materials brought to action - the Taj being the result. His son later siezed power -- and king was impisoned in Palace for the last years of his life - he could wistfully look upon the Taj from his barred window. When he died his tomb was built next to his beloved.
Back to hotel for leisurely breakfast. Visit Agra Fort - beautiful views from top of Taj and river. Then the epic search for malaria tablets - lots of bumpy rickshaw riding. Visit countless chemists along Hospital road - end up getting our pills for over R1 per pill. So much for cheaper in India! Finally, catch rickety government bus to Bharatpur. Hard seats. Solicited at station by friendly little kid - go on his "dad's" rickshaw.

Birding Paradise

We stay at Falcon hotel - friendly hosts and great, cheap food in quiet surroundings.
Sun 16: Hire bikes and take early cycle round Keoladeo Ghana National Park. Birding heaven - some say best bird park in all of Asia. 450 bird count - especially rich in winter when migrants use the wetlands as a stepping stone on the north to south migration. Use hotel book to identify several new species of birds - storks, kingfishers, mynas, ducks, owls (show to us by guides - very impressive till discover they stay on same perch everyday! I am in my element - the joys of birding rediscovered!
In the afternoon, I return (lock Ally in to her room by misake!) and explore with an expert guide (20 years experience) who charges R10 and hour. I see over 30 new species, including Siberian stalk (re-intoduced one) and Tawny eagle. Elation.
Mon 17: Early trip to park. Misty and beautiful. Walk through woods - gawking at woodpeckers, sparrowhawks and mynas. Delicious lunch of Kofta (potatos and veggies in a ball). Then back to the bus station for Jaiper.

Jaipur

A 4 hour journey on a bone hard seat in a government bus (supposedly safer than private).
An Indian keeps prodding Ally in the backside with his smelly feet - pushed in by his comatose friend. Thankfully, some other locals berate him for his rude behaviour. In Jaipur, we book a bus to Jaissalmer - for 10 pm the following night. Then to Jaiper Inn. Opt for a dingy, cheap room in the "cellar".
Tues 18: Lunch at the larniest restaurant in town (Niros). Luxurious and tranquil respite from the bustling, honking roads. Then visit the Pink City and its Pink Palace. Arms, textiles and Indian art. Indian carpet = 40 by 15 foot. Largest single piece of silver in the world = two urns (that carried ganges water to England) weghing 250 kg and taking 9000 liters.
Ally gets very excited about Indian miniture art on silk - export potential for her cards. Buy many postcards. Back to Niros for supper, collect bags and off we go on our deluxe bus like a bat out of hell through the night.
Ally says that I am making her feel protected and cherished in India - that makes me feel great.

The Jaisselmer Fort

Wed 19: By the time we arrive, I am feeling horrible - trots and fever. Find a hotel in the fort and I crash in bed. Ally very supportive. I go to supper - and have to rush back to make it to the loo in time.
Thurs 20: I feel much better. Up early for a walk round the fort - views of the city from the fort walls. Cows everywhere in the allys. Beautiful red sandstone houses and temples. We go for breakfast at 8 July - sit on patio with view of the square. Run by an Indian who lived in America for many years as dishwasher - takes every opportunity to cook, returns to Jaisalmer where he opens a restaurant and becomes king pin. Full of energy with a quip for everything, he takes no shit from his customers. Drink coffee lassey and write postcards to my family.
We also eat at vegetable restaurant - in tiny balcony with view of city. Feel fresh breeze. Restful day. I buy light cotton trousers.
Meditating on the Fort Wall in the evening, a man with bottle of water says "Latrine". I sit confused while he squats. Loud, noisy movement. Groans of exertion and pleasure. "Oh my god." Then up and away.

The Camel Safari

Fri 21: Lynn, a ruppee pinching American joins us and our two camel drivers. She lives in Austria, having given up the stressful and materialistic life of her home country. Lives in a tiny one room apartment on her waitressing salary - saves 95%. She spent 100 $ on her month trip!
Desert suspicious - spitting flem with influenza, wash plates with sand, then breathed on by kids.
Camels made trip worthwhile. Extra-ordinary creatures, take continual abuse with only grunts of displeasure. Continual bad mood. Their eyes (fringed by beautiful eye lashes) show it all - stoic acceptance of their heavy lot in life. Down on knees, get loaded up, carry, back on knees. Rope attached to rod through nose to ensure their obedience. Tug on rope very painful. Haughty looks as eyes peruse the desert scene. Keep knocking head against flanks and stamping legs to rid flies. Flick tail between legs.
Motley "Galoo" most full of character and tragedy. Stood up as soon as Lynn sat on, racing ahead, veering off in wrong decision. Three men held him down and branded his wound on his back thigh - to cure his scorpion bite on his front foot? Branded every ten days or so till foot is better. (incentive to heal!) Poured a bottle of pure oil down his throat. More like outskirts of Karoo with shrubs and succulents. Off the tourist track, in the middle of nowhere. Food cooked on open fire. Very, very spicy. Hygiene rather suspect!
Visit villages. Sit in hut and listen to traditional music. Don't drink the tea. Children all stare at us. Ask us to take photo and send it to them.
Mon 24: On final day, Ally is sick. Her camel does constant bench presses to let her off to vomit. I walked most of the day. (Sick Ally on the back of a sick camel, throwing up from the camel's back. Ally is concerned she might get branded on the rump - home remedy. Phone the jeep to come early.

Impressions:

Flies everywhere, especially on the camels. Sleeping under the stars; birs everywhere on clothes, my cheap "bushwacker" hat, watching the sun set with Ally from the top of a dune, feeling pissed off at being "bossed around" by camel chaps because of their lack of English, rubbing my bum raw on the camel seet, undulating feeling on the camel, bip bop music on the jeep trip back.
Staring children watching Ally and I embrace (like porno movie to them!), waking on sandy dunes, taking photos of our footprints, marriage proposal of camel driver to Lynn - "You could take me to America. But what would you do. Cook. On an open fire with stones!"
My down jacket gets "nicked" and I have to wait to get it back, Lynn with her commentary for everything and her incessant chatting about her experiences in Africa.
I have an awesome spiritual experience under the stars on the dunes.

Farewell Jaisalmer

Tues 25: We stay at the Himalayan guesthouse. More 8 July food and sitting. Meet some friendly Cape Townians. Visit the Palace - lots of rooms to explore and unbelievable views from the overhanging balconies and roof.
Also visit a Hindu Temple. Weird and wonderful. Figures in lotus position round circumference. Priests using the religion for baksheesh - prostitution. Painting the idols with orange mootie. Beautiful skulptures. Elephants and monsters and women doing the squats.
Catch 3 pm bus to Uidapur. I am beseiged by fever again. Awful feeling, to be so vulnerable and weak. Sit at back of bus, very bumpy. Stop in Jodpur - where Ally and I rickshaw off for a snack, served with impecable service by very smart waiters.
The next bus stage is an almighty fuck up. They allow Indians on first (and we stand back with our meek breeding and manners), then get on the bus to find double booking. 3 people for seat 19! Luckily Ally and I get seats, albeit cramped as hell. Elderly Indian gent has immature fight with German tourist about putting his chair back. Ally steps in human sewerage, like me previously.

The city of the royal lakes

Wed 26: We arrive in Udaiper at 5:30 am and collapse into bed in nice and cheap hotel "Nukkad". Friendly owners. I feel grotty all day, weak with fever. Went for lunch at Hotel Natural on rooftop - delicious springroll. Ally has revolting macaroni. Eat as the Indians! Watched Octopussy - I had forgotten how much I love James Bond and Roger Moore. An institution. A highlight of my childhood! There are several scenes of Udaiper in the movie - including a rickshaw chase (hilarious!), the Palace Hotel (Bond fitted right in), and the

Monsoon and Lake Palaces

Thurs 27: Meet Jimmy, a solid and friendly rickshaw driver. Cash money at bank (beaurocratic!) and get tickets (2 hours of queues). Visit the City Palace (exquisite courtyard of glass guineafowls + courtyard with pool and trees). Great view of lake. Walk past luxury hotel ($200 a night) and eat at larny terrace restaurant overlooking the lake and the gorgeous Lake Palace. Had my best chicken burger ever.
Drive with Rickshaw Jimmy to Monsoon Palace on top of hill - a steep ride where all rickshaws have to stop half way to cool their engines. Pay baksheesh to enter palace - a fantasy place of phenomenal views and princessland balconies and rooms. Watch sun set, in awe of GM - with swifts and cooing pigeons, and then walk round the front. Feel the Now!
Impressions: Holy cows lie in the streets, not at all concerned aout traffic on either side - moo in contempt knowing drivers are too scared to hit them. Petting cows, especially calves, is fun. They have long tongues.
I find peace again on top of a little hill overlooking the Lakes of Udaiper.
Fri 28: Feeling feverish again - I am sure its because of my infected flem. I must get my post nasal drip seen to in SA. I excitedly categorise my dairy system so I can see different things at a glance.
We go to excellent restaurant with impeccable manners. Eat delicious spicy dish with young goat meat. Fireworks over the lake.
Just before, we met Ravi. Ally orders a book of homemade paper for her Thailand journal. Meet Ravi, a shop keeper with a high pitched voice who seems to love his job.
Sat 29: Write postcards on Nukkad's relaxing rooftop. Pancakes with ice cream. Visit craft village. Saw dancing. Walked along lake - stunning with island gardens. Watched birds and saw a turtle. Stopped off on a hill to admire the view where I feel the stillness. Go back to sunset terrace for another chicken burger. Watch Pulp Fiction - great movie!
Sun 30: Decide to go to Lake Palace. But fully booked - and we had already drawn money! My brainwave - lunch the next day! Yes! Go to buy shoes. I masterfullyy negotiate 250 rupee price down to 150. Ally very impressed. We rent bikes and cycle round the lakes. Beautiful.
Then go back to Monsoon Palace for a spiritual sunset with the swifts. Amazing flaming clouds.
Finally, go to Hotel Natural for great supper of Chineese and Mexican.
Mon 1: Ally tries to make reservation for lunch but fully booked. I phone back and turn it around - very relaxed and polite. Ally impressed and so was I!
I have a great shave experience. Visit the local temple. Religions, I have realised, evolve around symbols with meaning - rather like my own growing symbols. Powerful.
We had ordered a tiny elephant painting for our printers tray (to be) and the end result was fantastic. Ally delighted.
Catch boat to Lake Palace. Luxury and tranquility. A glorious experience of delectable food (buffet), relaxing in the lush courtyard with fountain and pond, and exploring the pool and terrace. Romantic and special with Ally.
So glad we decided to come - thanks to my realisation you must have an abundance mentality when it comes to exploring something special. Also part of cherishing.
One man's full time job was shooing pigeons away with his long rope.
After lunch, enjoy painless night train trip back to Delhi.

Delhi

Tues 2: Delhi as hectic as ever . We eat at Nirulas - fantastic ice cream. Very short on cash. Walk around the streets. Two shagging dogs get stuck.
Wed 3: Taxi to airport. Coffee three different prices within 30 metres. Bags X rayed in center of airport. Person to check passport, another to allocate seat, another to tear slip off ticket. Off and away to SE Asia!

More stories

Little boy taking a dump. He holds out his hand: "chocolate!"
Bicycle riskshaw takes us with packs. See his straining muscles and feel terrible. Pay 3x more than ask to allay guilt.
Make snowangels and snow fight in Kashmir mountains. Our guide looks at us like we are crazy. Snow so new to us.
Indian sympathises with our crime situation. You need a good administrator.
Man with feet under Ally's bottom with comatose friend. Indian chews him up.
Stand in shin deep shit on bus "pee stop." Try to wash. Have to brinng smelly shoes on bus. Had all space I wanted.
Public toilets open along walls. Makeshift fence.
Conjunctivitis on train - pee on slums of India.
I step in sewage, then find a barrel to clean off. It turns out to be the "bum washing" barrel.
Are you married. (Yes to avoid hassle) Any children - no - look at you with tremendous pity in their eyes.