}

13 September 2001

Cape Town to Nairobi






Summary of my overland trip from Cape Town to Nairobi
  • 4 week overland trip from Cape Town to Nairobi through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Kenya with “Which Way Adventures” in a large truck with 13 fellow passengers and two crew
  • Pre-briefing to meet fellow travellers and the crew. They are delighted to have a fellow SAFA on board
  • Leave from Business School at Waterfront. First view of our yellow truck
  • First camp, briefing from Martin, learn how to pitch tents
  • Memorable fellow travellors: Carl, my tent mate, an American law student and intrepid photographer; Chris the hilariously funny group clown; Rory, the firy and booze loving Irishman; “Mama”, very large, loud, fun American who got on Martin’s nerves; Anna the wingy Australian; Terra the young student from “down South” with the long drawl; Menno, the older, zany Dutch lorry driver
  • Views of Fish river canyon – and river walk at camp site
  • Hear about 9 / 11 just outside Swakopmund ( Namibia) - shocking but surreal
  • Cycling into town with Anna from the camp site
  • Sand buggying in dunes of Swakopmund
  • Nice camp site in Namib with canyon walk. Get sozzled on punch and get to know each other
  • Climbing a large dune in the Namib and viewing an ancient petrified forest in the middle of the desert (where they filmed “The Cell” starring Jenniefer Lopez)
  • Driving through Namib coastal park and seeing large seal colony (very smelly!)
  • Seeing lions at the “night hole” at Etosha Pan and a leopard on a game drive
  • Long game drive to hilly part of Etosha
  • Lazing in the pool at Etosha camp
  • Walk into a barbed wire fence and cut my stomach (faint scar to this day)
  • Fly into Okovango Swamp from Maun in tiny plane ( Botswana)
  • Moses, the fun local guide. “Welcome to Afrika” in his deep voice
  • Makuro (dug out boats) through the swamp – overnighting on an island with roars of lions and hyena skulking close by
  • Game walk on island in Okovango
  • Watching birds and hippos from the look-out at Okovango camp – and trying to find our wooden huts in the dark
  • Stay in Baobab camp on way to Chobe – and I prove my worth my climbing the pole in the bar to write my name on the roof
  • Sun set river trip at Chobe, watching elephants on the bank
  • Holding breath under the water competitions in pool at Chobe – I manage close to 3 minutes but Carl just pips me
  • Martin meets a soul mate, a South African tourist who joins us for the next 5 days – he’s in love for the rest of the trip
  • Victoria Falls – white river rafting grade 5 rapids along Zambezi River (feeling rather ill due to dehydration)
  • Pissing it up in the local bar (after a meal at the Spur) – Chris gets a body shot from Mama!
  • Touts desperately selling foreign currency
  • Overnight in cool camp on Zambian side of Zambezi
  • Sun set and all you can drink cruise along the Zambezi River – and pushing Carl into the pool with his passport, then getting pushed in myself
  • Ben takes out his glass eye
  • Slow progress over pot holed, narrow roads in Zambia – slow progress in the big truck
    Southern
  • South Luanga National park – day and night drive. See leopard cubs, Scops Owl
    Great fun by pool at South Luanga and elephants coming through the camp, playing darts
  • Into Malawi, the land of happy, colourful people
  • 4 amazing days at camp on Lake Malawi– snorkeling, windsurfing, fishing, water skiing. Fun with the camp’s tame squirrel monkey who loved playing with the dogs. Watch England narrowly claw back a draw against Greece in the Euro qualifier. Apocolypse Now – Terra’s favourite movie. “Truth or dare”
  • Locking Chris into his tent
  • Weird swimming out in what look like the ocean but not needing to worry about sharks
    Apple pie at the famous local tea house
  • Two nights at another camp along the lake – beer race against another truck, great waterfall walk, swimming in some quite big waves
  • Reading “Down Under” by Bill Bryson
  • Into Tanzania – the girls have trouble peeing in private because curious local keep appearing from nowhere
  • Dar Es Salaam camp site – get to swim in the ocean. Prostitutes in the camp cause some merriment. Sexual confessions – innocent Terra does some shocking
  • Zanzibar ferry to Spice Town. Italian ice cream, night fish markets
  • Drive a jeep with Terra and Mamma, while others go motor biking. Red Colobus Monkey. Great forest walks. Up north to a gorgeous coastal camp. Swimming, beach walks, turtle aquarium, smoking grass, Lounge music, lying till very late by the fire
  • Serengetti base camp – love birds, great bar, Panic Mechanic
  • Drive to camp on outskirts – see Coucal
  • Serrengetti – see the big 5 within an hour, leopard hanging over tree, cheetah too. Giant Eagle Owl. Sit on roof of the cruisers, sharing sightings on walkie talkie.
  • Ngoro Gora Crater, amazing views down, fever trees, flamingos on the pan, lion.  Wild pigs at camp on top of crater
  • Back to Serengetti Base camp for a big piss up
  • Kenya lake – Malachite Kingfisher, watch TV, feel a little blue, Cry Freedom house where Hamiltons lived
  • To Nairobi. Visit museum with Terra
  • Fly out back to London - what an awesome trip


New birds Seen

Etosha (Namibia)
  • Doublebanded Sandgrouse
  • Sociable weaver
  • Kori Bustard

Okavango
  • Lesser honeyguide

Ngora Crater
  • Lesser Flamingo

Serengeti
  • Whitebrowed Coucal
  • Southern Crowned Crane
  • Giant Eagle Owl
  • Yellowthroated Sandgrouse

South Luanga
  • African Scops Owl

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