Provincial Esteros del Iberia

Aquatic plants and grasses, including "floating islands", dominate this wetland reserve that covers 13000 square kilometers in north central Corrientes, Argentina.


Twitching vigorously. That´s what I was doing most of the time here as birds were abundant almost beyond belief. I saw close to 40 new species. We also saw capybara, swamp deer, howler monkeys, otters and caimans (crocodiles).




Capybaras are the largest rodents in the world. They look like giant guineapigs. It is the rodent equivilent of a hippopotamus. Cattle Tyrants perch on their backs and much ticks all day long. Tasty.


Caimans are also abundant in the reserve. They aren´t big enough to eat people but could certainly take off a limb or two - so we were encvouraged not to dangle our feet from the boat.


I wouldn´t want to be a juicy fly with one of these in the vicinity. Easily the biggest frog I have ever seen. It would provide a month of meals for a gastronome except I suspect they are poisonous. When my knuckle brushed against one (curiosity can be a killer), it felt like I had touched a stinging nettle.


We never did hear the Howler Monkeys howl. They were far too busy lazing around in the trees, doing nothing. The alpha male did come to check me out but from the disdain on his face, obviously did not think I was much of a threat, and he wandered on.


Most of the reserve consists of rivers, reeds and lakes so the best way to explore it is by boat. I was lucky to find a guide who was a guru on birds who also took me on some walks into the reeds. As you walk, you can feel the ground sponging beneath you and you realise that you are walking on a huge island of floating grass. Happily we didn´t fall through - much to the disappointment of the caimans.



The sunsets were gorgeous. We appreciated the early mornings and evenings as a refreshing reprieve from the very hot and muggy days. We were expecting to do battle with swarms of mosquitos but were suprised (and delighted) at how few there were. Probably thanks to my many feathered friends, not to mention the giant frogs.


We also explored part of the park on horse back. Where else can you rent horses and a guide for $ 3,50 an hour? We enjoyed it tremendously but sure felt it the next day. Our guide was a fun and chatty guy so we got to practise our Spanish. We are finally getting to grips with the language, just as we head off into Portuguese speaking lands. That´s life!


Cloudy reflections


You know you are in swamp lands when...


...you share your shower with a baby frog.

New birds seen

Olivaceous cormorant
White-necked Heron
Maguari Stork
Southern Screamer
Brazilian Duck
Snail kite
Rufous-sided crake
Giant Wood-Rail
Limpkin
Yellow-billed tern
Spot-winged pigeon
Picui Ground Dove
Smooth-billed Ani
Guira cuckoo
Band-winged Nightjar
Green-barred Woodpecker
Field Flcker
Narrow-billed woodcreeper
Yellow-chinned Spinetail
Sooty Tyrannulet
Pied water tyrant
White headed Marsh-Tyrant
Cattle Tyrant
Brown-crested Flycatcher
Masked gnatcatcher
Tropical Parula
Greenwinged Saltator
Yellow-billed Cardinal
Redcrested finch
Rusty-collared seedeater
Great Pampa-Finch
Shiny cowbird
Bay-winged cowbird
Golden-winged cacique
Unicoloured Blackbird
Epaulet Oriole
Troupial
Scarlet-headed Blackbird