Quilotoa Lake (Ally)

Our travel book describes Quilotoa as a crater lake and does not have much else to say. So neither of us were prepared for just how beautiful it would be. When we arrived, clouds were coming over the sides of the crater making it look moody and dark and very atmospheric indeed.

It was a very steep walk down to the lake down the crater walls but the scenary just grew on us and we sat at times trying to take it all in. The lake water was not very cold but it is this incredible aqua green colour due to the minerals in it - so rich that no fish can live in the water.

We were astonished to discover that the last eruption of the Volcano was in 1797 and this is when the enormous lake was formed - very recent in geography time.

Due to the weather being rather chilly we did not spend long at the bottom. Both of us being lazy and G had a sore back (great excuse) so we decided to hire donkeys to take us back up. After speaking to the local chap and clearing up that it was a "dorro" (donkey) we wanted not a "borro" (bull) - me being dyslexic - the chap said that he would just have to go make a call.

Next thing we know he has his hands capped around his mounth and is shouting at the top of his lungs from the bottom of the crater to the top (at least a kilometer away) for two donkeys to be brought down. That´s what you do when there is no phone! His matter of factness made me double up in laughter. 10 minutes later two donkeys and their owners arrived, having run down the steep sides of the crater.

The saddle was a couple of blankets so the spine of the donkey really gets at one´s backside (which you can still feel two days later). The donkeys are very fit and get you up in 45min, it would have taken us 2hours to walk.

Unless of-course they throw you which happened to G. It gave me such a fright but he landed in sand and he said he was OK - but it did not do his back any good. The donkey having thrown his passenger decided not too stick around and belted up to the top!!! The poor guide had to run up to fetch the poor animal and come down again. He really earned his money.

We decided to stick around that night mainly due to their being no way out until 5 am the next day. We stayed in a family home which had beds in every nook and cranny.

The stars that night were some of the best I have ever seen as there is no light pollution. We all spent time just staring at the sky. It was so dark in bed that night that you couldn´t see your hand in front of your face. This is definately not something I am used to even when we camp.

The bus did not arrive at 5am (well not ever), so we were able to watch the sunrise. Although annoyed that we could not get back we were delighted to see the sunrise right over the Cotopaxi volcano in the far off distance.

We managed to negotiate a ride back to town for $10 with our hostel owner. He wanted $20 intially but we have become good bargainers. As he had paying customers, the wife and friends came along to visit town as well. This was not a problem, but what rather peeved us was when he stopped for half an hour to look at wood. We weren´t to impressed. South America time requires a lot of patience at times!

Here is a photo of the lake

Russel, Graeme wants to know if you think his "Russel leap" is coming on? He is practicing hard as you can see, trying to make it look levitationally effortless. Not quite at your standard yet, but perhaps getting there?

Catching the donkey back up the crater. We felt like lazy colonialists. Note the donkey guider hanging onto the poor beast´s tail to help him up the steep path.

The scenery on the drive back through the mountainous farmlands of Ecuador was also really beautiful.

We also got great views of the famous Cotopaxi Volcanic mountain which increased our motivation to visit the park and see the peak close up.