}

28 May 2006

Cuyabeno Jungle (Ecuador)

I just got back from a great 5 days in the Cuyabeno Reserve. It encompasses over 650 000 hectares of primary jungle and includes a famous flooded forest.

I decided to focus more on the spiritual side of the trip this time, so did not take many photos. But wow, what a beautiful place it was.

Ally, who is all jungled out and hates mosquitos, chose to rather chill out in Banyos, a mountain retreat with hot springs. Can´t blame her!


Highlights
  • A 3 hour motorboar trip to our jungle base, watching the jungle become more and more wild and untamed as we ventured along remote waterways.
  • Walks through the deep jungle, identifying plants (our guide was a veritable fundi on botany and the practical uses of plants and trees)
  • Eating wild mushrooms (they were delicious)
  • Rubbing in "dragons blood" (red sap from a tree) that is a wonder cream for wounds, bites and even tummy ulcers
  • Watching our guide eat a large, juicy worm from a coconut seed. I said I would eat the next one we found - but we never did (thankfully!)
  • Lots of new birds (magpie tanager, white banded swallow, violaceous jay, screaming piha, many banded aracari, masked crimson tanager, blue crowned trogon, blackheaded parrot and russet backed tanager)
  • Seeing the Suffocation Ficus tree that uses another tree to grow up to the light (like a thick vine) and then consumes the unfortunate host within it as it grows around it.
  • Listening to a symphony of bird and insect sounds while sitting on the river bank at dusk
  • The enormous "Sabre Trees", 40 metres tall and 600 years old.
  • Seeing a baby turtle and many different frog species
  • Massive tarantula spiders under our sleeping platform. One ventured up to one of the girl´s beds and I was summoned to remove it. For some reason, I developed the nickname of "the jungle guy."
  • Juan, our expert guide, who loved the expressions "awesome" and "oh, my god." Said them at least 100 times a day.
  • 4 different species of monkeys (Tropical Night Monkey, Capuchin, Squirrel, Spider Monkey)
  • Lots of Hoatzin birds, one of the weirdest birds on the planet, seen close up
  • Reading "Practicing The Power of Now" by EckhartTolle - amazing book
  • Following a trail of "leaf cutter ants" from the tree where they were collecting leaves to their nest a good 300 metres away (where they feed the leaves to a fungus that they eat)
  • Exploring and swimming in the amazing flooded forest of Laguna Grande - a surreal and gorgeous landscape. The sunset was beautiful.
  • Seeing River Dolphins at dusk
  • Pirhana fishing with bits of chicken (I did not catch anything but lost a lot of chicken. Those pirhanas are wiley fish!)
  • Birding in the early morning, floating along the river
  • Visiting a local family to make bread from a local root (nutritious but not particularly tasty. I think I will stick to French loaves)
  • All in all, a very relaxing and beautiful trip






List of new birds seen

  • sun grebe
  • magpie tanager
  • violaceous jay
  • screaming piha
  • many banded aracari
  • masked crimson tanager
  • blackheaded parrot
  • russetbacked oropendola
  • black hawk eagle
  • white banded swallow
  • Greater ani

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