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12 December 2013

The family's travels through Asia

Singapore




Hanoi

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Presidential Palace and One Pillar Pegoda

Hoan Kiem lake

Life on the streets in Hanoi

Life on the streets in Hanoi

Halong Bay

Floating Village

The Dragon Pearl Junk

The Dragon Pearl Junk



Hoi An (my favourite spot)






Saigon

Cu Chi Tunnels

Notre Dame Cathedral and general post office

The War Remembrance Museum and The Reunification Palace

Cantho

Rice processing plant in Cantho (OMG I'm never going to eat rice again!)

Cantho in the Meekong River - hotel and birthday cake

Cycle trip on our way from Saigon to Cantho in The Mekong River

Floating Market in Cantho

Island of Phu Quoc

Island of Phu Quoc

Island of Phu Quoc




General impressions of Vietnam









Cambodia

Angkor Wat

Tree Temple(where The Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie was filmed

Phnom Penh - The Killing Fields

Phnom Penh Genocide Museum

Phnom Penh - The Royal Palace and river boat sunset cruise

Phnom Penh - The Royal Palace and river boat sunset cruise

Cambodia kids

Elephants in Cambodia


Cape Town Airport

Asia here we come!!




Singapore

On arrival
We had a fantastic first day in Singapore. Hot and humid but manageable still. We went to Orchard Road where Sam was delighted to find her One Direction Perfume and a " little" lens for me!!!  So awesome being here near Christmas time with all the decorations up. Went up in the Singapore Flyer, eaten lots of noodles and finished off with a Singapore Sling.

Next day
Another wonderful day exploring Singapore's Sentosa Island. We conquered the metro train, took a mono-rail, a cable car, jumped off a mountain attached to a zip line, drove a segeway and a luge. We walked ourselves silly too and spent 2 hours cooling off at the waterpark. A fabulous day and Matt said, "Dad, thus is the coolest trip ever"!!!




Hanoi (Vietnam)

Arrived safe and sound.  OMG, so different to Singapore.  Crazy, wild, noisy, messy, tasty, colourful with a mass of electrical wires going from building to building.  Lovely hotel room  ( no windows to look out of just glass bricks as I think the view would freak people out!) and just walked to a recommended restaurant and had the most incredible meal.  Did I say it was incredible? !!!  I can't wait to take photos but still feel a little intimidated.  I have never seen such narrow roads completely congested with motorbikes,  hardly any space to walk on the almost non existent pavements. Off to walk around the local lake.

Next day
I can't believe we are still alive!  You need to be a cat here and think Ant used up half his quota of 9 lives while on the rickshaw ride alone ?  I was following behind him on my own rick-shaw and could not believe my eyes at how close he came to being hit!  I think one has to have a lot of good faith to live in this city. 

Eventually, I just sat back, relaxed and enjoyed the ride thinking I have not seen one accident yet!  I heard Saigon is even busier!   It is one thing fending for your self but a bit nerve racking looking after both yourself and 2 kids!

Ants and I started the day at 6 am by walking to the lake a short walk from the hotel.  It was absolutely awesome.  We even had a pavement to walk on as the millions of motor bikes were not parked on it yet.  There was also a quietness about the place which ended at 6.45 as the drone of motor bikes started up again. 

All along the lake were people doing exercises from Tai Chi to stretches to back bends over the benches!  It felt so sacred that I could not take out my camera to capture it.  There were groups of elderly Vietnamese listening to very scratchy music blaring out their little boom box doing their little stretching routines.  I have not seen one fat Vietnamese person while being here.  

After breakfast we went on the city tour.  Considering that it was a family tour, it was a bit heavy as we went to Hochi Min Mausoleum to see him lying in State. 
Lots of presidential guards ushering us along.  We then went to see where he lived, viewed the gardens and we visited Vietnam's oldest university - the Temple of Literature which is older than Cambridge ( our guide had great delight in telling us that).  We had another hour wandering round the museum of ethnicity where we learnt about the 54 ethnic groups living here. We had another fantastic meal and the went on our rickshaw ride around the old city.  Our afternoon ended off with a water puppet show which to be honest we could have done without as it was in Vietnamese, was long and we all kept nodding off!

A few thoughts and impressions of my first 2 days in Vietnam:
  • Arrival.  So much paperwork to fill in, clean airport but absolutely no character.  Stark and bland.  No pictures anywhere.  
  • Outside the weather is grey.  No blue sky, just grey
  • Motor bikes everywhere you look.  They all park on th pavements so almost impossible to walk on it.  Not to mention all the vendors selling and cooking on the side walk too.
  • My excitement at seeing my First Lady wearing the traditional hat and carrying the bamboo stick, balancing 2 baskets, jam packed with either food stuff, veg and fruit or wares to sell.
  • About every 3d person smoking.
  • Bird cages and washing hanging out building windows.
  • Old men sitting in groups on the park benches, just chatting.
  • Delivery motor bikes piled high with anything from flowers, metal, helium balloons to delivery packages.
  • A mass of electrical wires going from building to building.  A complete spiders web of disorganized mess!
  • The lovely lakes and canals.
  • Seeing a family of 4 on 1 motorbike.
  • Make shift Barbour shops on the pavements with just a mirror strung up and a jar of combs and scissors!
  • People still being able to smoke and talk on their cell phones while driving on their bikes and motor bikes!
  • The camaraderie between the locals as they sit on little plastic chairs on the pavement and share a meal of soup and noodles together from a central pot.
  • The old city verse the French quarter verse the new modern buildings being built.
  • The hundreds of shops selling everything from silk sleeping bags to shoes to flowers to nick nacks for the tourists.  Also the amazing little art galleries that I can see filling my house with beautiful paintings.
  • We have seen loads of brides too having their photos taken.  Have to be honest a say none of them had amazing dresses on. Most had long slits and they wore long pants underneath  The Vietnamese are very conservative in their dress.
Think that is about it.  Tomorrow we have a 5 hour drive to Halong Bay.


Halong Bay

Sam and Ant got up early and went down to watch the people exercising by the lake.  Sam is our official videographer and has been making movies at each city! 

We were ready to hit the road at 7.45.  It was a 3.5 - 4 hour drive to Halong Bay.   I was relieved to be our if the congested city.  Was fun for 2 days but no more.  We crossed over lots of beautiful bridges along the way, all appear to have been built by the French.   Tons if motor bikes pouring into the city across the bridge - families in tow.

We drove past one village in a coalining province.   All the houses were blackened with soot.  Even the plants looked black.  People there have a much higher rate of lung infections.  Most people walked around with masks on and all the cyclists and motor cyclists wore masks in Hanoi.

We make one stop at a huge warehouse that housed disabled people embroidering the most exquisite pictures.  Ranged from small to huge.  Must literally  take them months.  All hand sewn and final product looks like a painting.  They also sold silk clothes and smaller embroidered items and lacquered wood items.   So excited to discover the peanut brittle that Antony and I were addicted to when we travelled through Asia 15 years ago!!   The road was really bumpy.  I had a massive headache at the end if it!  Once again it was better not to look ahead as you could see your life flashing before your eyes as our bus overtook  up to 3 cars and as many motor bikes at a time with another bus doing the same on the other lane!

We were dropped if at the harbour and awaited our turn to board the Dragon Pearl Junk.  The name does not do it justice as the boat is really beautiful inside. 

Vietnamese built, there were 11 cabins all with teak wood, cosy (read small) with an on suite shower and toilet.  Lovely big bed, comfy linen and air conditioning which was a life saver as it got really cold.  A fantastic crew of 13 and a guide Joe, kept us well fed, watered and looked after.  There was a lovely dining room for the 16 guests on board this trip but no other covered area which was a pity as we has quite a bit of rain so hard to stand on the deck without getting wet.

Our itinerary mentioned Tai Chi and sunrises on the deck and beautiful sunsets but unfortunately we did not see the sun once and the deck was too wet and slippery and uncovered for exercises!! 

We were however fed like kings!   Delicious courses that just kept coming.  Sam and I were so well catered for too as we said we don't eat shell  fish, so every time a prawn, oyster or squid dish was brought out, Sam and I got something different and delicious.  

One of the crew took a liking to Matt and he was treated like royalty. Matt even tried squid fishing off the back of the boat and discovered he was a pro, catching 3 squid.  The chef cooked them up for his lunch the next day.  Matt looked like the cat who had got the cream!

We went kayaking off the back of the boat on our first day.  We left quite late and it suddenly got  quite dark.  We went around one of the islands and I was so relieved to finally see the boat after an hour of rowing.  Got back in the dark.  Just a little bit scary!

The next morning we went to a floating fishing village.  There are 300 people living in little houses all in a row attached to each other.  We were rowed by the local ladies in traditional basket boats.  The people all looked quite  Westernised with their dress.  My greatest disappointment was being there on a Saturday so there were no kids at the school.  I have not taken one great  photo yet!  It is too intimidating taking people pics of the locals (feel a bit intrusive) not knowing them and the weather had been grey grey grey.

On day 2 we kayaked from a beach and then had the most glorious swim. It was warmer in the water than out and I couldn't go home and not have swum in Halong Bay.  

On Facebook
Such a privilege to have spent 3 days 2 nights on Halong Bay, one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. We sailed aboard the Dragon Pearl Junk, a beautiful 11 cabin sleeper cruising vessel. The limestone past formations were just as beautiful as I imagined. We ate like kings, kayaked, swam, ate dinner in a cave. We were rowed in traditional basket boats around the floating fishing village with a population of 300 people. My only disappointment was the weather. It was grey with in and off rain. 



On our second night in Halong Bay,  we had a dinner in a limestone cave organized.   We pictured a dark dingy cave full of bat and shit and could not really imagine enjoying a dinner there  but was was a real highlight of my trip.  The launch that we were towing took us back to the beach and we climbed up a steep path up to the cave.  It was all lit up for us but it was raining so a bit slippery.   We walked into the second chamber of the cave where the crew had set up the most beautiful table for us with candles, music, and rose petals.   We had another fantastic meal and we really enjoyed the company of our travelling companions.  2 Ausies, 2 Spanish, 2 Singaporians, 2 Indians, 2 Chinese Americans and 2 other South Africans from the Free State! 

Our tour operator running the  Dragon Pearl and 5 other boats is the only company allowed on this route we took so it was very quiet with with hardly any tourists around.  However, I think the main tourist route may have had the more famous kast formations but there are 100 boats allowed along that route so you lose on the swings you gain on the round abouts!!!

Our last Day was short,  we basically just had lunch at 11 and by 11.30 we were back at the harbour.  It was raining all morning so all my photos look misty and dark!


Da Nang

It was back on the bus with our Hanoi guide Joe and a 1, 5 hour drive to the airport where we joined the mass of people at the airport (most smoking) for our trip to Da Nang.  Luckily most went off to to saigon and our flight was very quiet to Da Nang, just under 2 hours flight away.  Wow.  What a different experience landing in Da Nang!  It was clean, bright, modern and really welcoming.  Our new guide met us and drove us to the hotel on the beach about 45 minutes from the airport.   It is a stunning hotel with huge rooms, and big enough for a couch.  The balcony overlooks the pool and the sea.  It is very windy but the weather is much better than up North!!

That's it for this instalment.



Hoi An

We have just had a wonderful 3 days exploring the riverside town of Hoi An,   known for its ancient architecture and colourful lanterns.  Our hotel was 6 km taxi drive away on the beach, it was wonderful but think I would have preferred to stay closer to the action and vibe of the town itself.  On the first morning, our guide, Quock, picked us up for the walking tour of the old city.  It is so quaint with small lanes, ancient houses, temples, outdoor restaurants and buildings with yin yang roof tiles and mossy walls.  There are hundreds of traders, tailors,  lantern sellers and if course the ubiquitous old ladies with their bamboo stick and baskets selling fruit and vegetables.  I was told that most people who visit Vietnam come to Hoi An and it is a very popular tourist destination.  I absolutely loved the town!  From 9-11am, 2-4pm and 6-9pm, cars are not allowed into the old city so it is such a pleasure having to avoid the motor bikes and cyclist only!!!  We were taken to some handicraft workshops where we saw mat weaving, embroidery of pictures, silkworm farming and wood carving.  We walked over the Japanese Covered Bridge which is the symbol of Hoi An.  We then hopped onto a cyclo for a trip round Cam Nam village, a non touristy section and watched the life if the everyday Vietnamese while cycling past their houses.   We ended off catching a boat and chugged along the river,  watching life go by and seeing the local fishermen throw out their nets for us (for a $ of course)!!  We had an enjoyable luch and then strolled around the local market seeing all sorts of fruit and veg I could not recognise! We went back to the hotel for some swimming and rest.  That night we took a taxi back to the old town as there was a festival on and Sam and Matt sent paper lantern candles down the river making a wish as they leg go. Lots of activity and of course the highlight for was seeing the  beautifully lit streets when all the lanterns came on.

Today 17th December.  It was raining this morning but we headed out to town anyway.  Sam and I split up from the boys and did some retail therapy.  There are hundreds of shops selling clothes that are fabulous, but you really have to make sure you get a good assistant as the same dress can cost $18, $15 or $ 6, depending where you go.  Silk scarves to die for in beautiful colours too.  Sam and I were in seventh heaven.  Ant saw a picture he liked yesterday for $18 and today I found it in a shop that was closing down and got it for him for $2!!  We found a lovely restaurant right on the river bank.  The house has been in the mans family for 4 generations. The family live upstairs and he and his sisters run the restaurant.   While the family was eating, I slipped away for a bit and found 4 great people to photograph!  Finally some portraits!!  They all had such wrinkled faces and you could see the years of hard work and poverty written all over their faces.  I won't even mention some of the teeth!!! 

Back to the hotel for a lovely sleep and walk on the beach.  This evening we had dinner across the road.  The extended family who live in this house run 4 businesses.  A restaurant, a spa, a laundromat and a motor bike rental!!  Such a sweet lady running the restaurant and we were kept entertained by her 3 year old!! 

Tomorrow we head off to Saigon! !!

The exquisite hand made lanterns in Hoi An.

How is this for the electric network! Known as the spiderweb! This type of scene can be found all over Vietnam!

Facebook
We are staying the the most picturesque town of Hoi An. Right on the Hoi river it is full of small lanes, ancient houses with yin-yang clay roof tiles and mossy walls, temples, and outdoor restaurants. The Old Town is so delightful with the famous Chua Bridge and hundreds of little stalls selling clothes and hand crafted lanterns, paintings and the usual tourist nick nacks. At night the streets in the town are lit up with the most beautiful colourful lanterns making it so restful and romantic.


Saigon

Wow.  Another day down!  We left our hotel in Da Nang and headed to the airport for Saigon.  We made one stop at China Beach where the American Soldiers came for rest. The flight was really quick, only 1 hour flying time.  Saigon is Vietnams most populated city with 9 million people and 6 million motor bikes!!  It is after 9pm now and the drone of the bikes and their incessant hooting just goes on and on.  We were upgraded to a bigger room at the liberty central hotel but I don't think it is such a blessing as we face onto the main  road whereas the kids room looks into an ally way but it is at least quiet.  It is so funny as I was one who sent the first email to the tour company Quivertree but after that initial contact, Antony did all the communication and of course the payments.  However,  whenever we are met at the airport by a new guide, he always holds up a huge sign saying "Joanne Boting and Family", much to Antony's disgust!!! 

We did not have time to go to the hotel on arrival, we went straight to the Reunification Palace (where the president lived and where the famous photo was taken of the north Vietnam army tank crashing through the gates signalling the fall of South Vietnam).  We then went to to the War Remembrance Museum where we saw a very sobering mostly photographic display of images of the Vietnam War.  For me the worst bit was the Agent Orange and chemical warfare that was used that caused huge birth deformities years down the line.  

Last stop on our tour was the Notre Dame Cathedral, a red bricked beautiful Catholic Church built by the French in 1877-1883.  With imposing twin towers, the entrance is dominated by a statue of the Virgin Mary.  There were loads if very beautiful girls modelling by the church.  Right next door was the general post office, also built by the French and gorgeous architecture.   Matt went in to buy a post card and stamp.  I am afraid it was a toss up between grandpa (who always is so good at sending post cards) but Graeme got the lucky straw this time!   

We went to the hotel in the centre of Saigon and had a dip in the pool on the 12th floor roof.  Lovely sunset from there so we had pre dinner drinks there too.  The sun came our at about 5 pm for the first time in over a week and I even saw some blue sky!!!

Dinner was ok.  At a restaurant called Pho Co.  There is a photograph of Bill Clinton eating there.  The décor was better than the food though.  Glass floor with koi fish swimming under your table and beautiful water features and fairy lights.  The whole city is lit up with lights for the festive season.   It looks totally gorgeous at night.  We were dropped off about 10 minute walk from the hotel and joined the throng of people visiting the city to see the lights.  Today I saw 5 people on one motorbike.  3 kids,  mom and dad driving with a cigarette! !!!  


Having such a wonderful holiday! Ho Chi Min City (Saigon) is the largest city in Vietnam with 9 million peole and 6 million motor bikes. The noise is unbelievable. Constant drone of bikes and hooting 24\7!! The energy is just amazing though. I will never complain of traffic again in Cape Town!!


Cu Chi Tunnels  (Saigon)

What an eventful day!  Matt had his dream fulfilled as we headed out early to explore the Cu Chi tunnels.   It is only a 35 km drive away outside the city but with the traffic it takes 1,5 hours!  I can’t even begin to explain the traffic here.  The throb and pulse and energy of the city.  It is just a sea of motor bikes.  I am so fascinated watching them all out of the bus window.  Old men on bikes, lovely ladies in high heeled shoes,  families, you name it, you see it!  Men carrying long steel poles in one hand and driving with the other, huge packages on the bike that the driver looks like he can’t even see over the handle bars, riders with cages on the back of the bikes filled with chickens!

Our trip around the tunnels was fascinating.  We saw various displays of how the Viet Cong lived during the time of combat, their traps,  weapons etc.  What we saw was an enlarged section of the 200 km network of interconnected and multi story underground passages averaging 1.5 m high and 0.7 m wide.  The Viet Cong had everything they needed underground from command posts,  field hospitals, weapons factories,  classrooms and living quarters.  The tunnels were all hand dug.  We watched a movie which said that the US forces used to drop bombs in the morning and then in  the afternoon they would continue life and plant crops to keep them fed. Ants, Matt and I then went into the  tunnel.  You could get out at various points (very hot and you feel quite claustrophobic but my son did the whole thing and then wanted to do it all again!!  I think Ant will feel it in the morning as I could still walk through while bending, he had to crawl and go on his haunches! 

We drove back to Hi Chi Min City and had a rather disappointing meal at a hotel restaurant.  It was organised by the guide but we prefer small more authentic restaurants.   This afternoon, after a nap, we headed out for the Saigon river.  We first stopped off at an indoor market.  Thank goodness, as suddenly the heavens opened and for a full hour it just poured and poured!   I got nervous the roof of the market would collapse under the water!   We then found a rather expensive coffee shop next to the market and sat there for a while.  The waiter brought everyone a glass of water when they sat down but at the end, when we paid the bill, we saw that they added R1 per glass of water.  They also add 10% vat on your meal and often add 5% service fee on services.  Finally we braved a light trickle and walked to the river.  Luckily we were in slip slops as the roads were full of puddles.  We have conquered crossing the roads here.  You need balls of steel but we just go for it.  You can’t be nervous.  Motor bikes don’t know the meaning of a red light!  Touch wood but amazingly we have not seen one accident yet.

Sam is feeling a bit queezy tonight so she is going to stay at the hotel while we pop out for dinner.  I must say I am becoming a bit over saturated with food.  Could do with a day or 2 of fruit only.


More Saigon

Wow.  What a start to the day!  Antony was surprised at breakfast with a lovely little cake and singing  from all the waiters at our hotel in Saigon. So after our breakfast of fried rice, we ate cake!!!  Nothing seems to be the same with food here.  Yesterday I ate soup and noodles for breakfast!

We had a totally amazing day.  We started by driving to the Saigon river to film a shot for Sams movie.  We went there last night but the i-pad did not want to work.  We drive to China Town and visited a temple

Then it was off to to the Mekong river area and we hopped on a chug boat and meandered slowly down the river, past houses on stilts and old fishing boats and fishing nets. At the end of the ride, we were met by the sweetest little girl and her puppy holding out some flowers for Sam and I.  Yay.  Finally photographed a child!   Our 2 boats men then produced 4 bikes, helmets and off we cycled down village roads and past the local community.  People were really friendly and shouted hello and we managed on the  narrow roads with other bikes and the odd motor bikes carrying baskets of fruit and even one with a pig on the back of his bike.

Cell going to die so sending this quickly before I charge xxx

Happy birthday Antony. We have had such a wonderful day celebrating with you. From a cake and singing for breakfast and another exquisite cake from the Victoria Hotel in Can Tho - it is sure to be the start of another great year!

Mr Hai

Our bikes were  really rather clapped out old things but they had little wire baskets in front so we could store our things.  My bike had one front brake only that squeaked like crazy whenever I used it.  Matt had a smaller BMX bike also with one brake!!  Our first stop was Mr  Hai's lush orchard garden.  He served us tea in his house.   We discovered that the 2 boats men and cyclists were his sons.   He dressed us up in Vietnamese hats and put us on a little rowing boat where the sons paddled us along the little canals bordering his orchard.   So beautiful and peaceful!   Very lush and tropical.  We got off at a spot in the orchard when there was a tasting table set up with all sorts of new and exotic fruits for us to try.  Mr Hai was totally delightful.   He couldn't speak much English but we made do with signing.   There must have been about 8 different fruit ti sample - some delicious some not so much!!  Mire tea to follow and some time to relax in the hammock.  

Mr Hai showed Matthew a seed that if you put it in water it would make a big popping noise much to his delight.  They went off to hunt for more seeds!  Back on the bike, along winding concrete back roads,  past sleepy villages, fruit gardens to a local ancient house where the owner cooked us the most delicious lunch.  My new addiction is banana flower salad and I have now seen where on the plant it comes from so will be tracking it down back in cape Town!



Can Tho

As full as ticks, we got back in the bus and headed for our overnight stop - Can Tho.  I was expecting a small sleepy village on the banks of the Mekong River but is is much larger than I thought.  It is the 4 th largest town in Southern Vietnam and on officially the capital of the Delta and the largest port in the Mekong river system.  The river is Can Tho's main feature and the floating markets 7 km down the river. 

Our hotel is totally gorgeous.  Very colonial with a huge central swimming pool.  Lovely lush gardens with its very own mascot baby water buffelo called Bravo. On arrival,  we were all given complimentary shoulder massages!!! We chilled by the pool, swam and just absorbed the life of luxury.  We took the hotel shuttle boat to the centre of town about 10 min ride and had dinner.  We skipped dessert and came back to the hotel for Antony's beautiful cake that the hotel had made for him.  Vanilla with pineapple jam and another with cream icing.  So gorgeously decorated with flowers and little snow men.  I am so surprised at the amount of Christmas decorations there are all over Vietnam.   Considering it is not a Christian country, they certainly have decorated everything from shops to hotels to streets to lights everywhere.  Very gorgeous.  We sat in the lounge and ate cake till we felt ill, played pool and wrote diaries.

It was another hit night.  I slept much better in the north with the cooler weather. They have down duvets on the bed here so my nights have been very hot.


Floating Market

This morning we were up at 6 for our 6.30 start to take the ferry to the floating market.  It was a 30 minute trip to get there and we did not realize how chilly it would be on the boat.  Poor Matt froze.  The floating market is where huge wooden boats, wholesalers loaded with mounds of cucumber, watermelon, pineapple, onions, green beans, turnips and coconut sell to individuals in tiny slivers of boats that weave their way precariously in between.   We were there early so not many tourists about yet.  We hopped onto one boat and bought a pineapple that was cut for us to eat.  Might have been a mistake as Sam now in bed feeling crampy and nauseous!!!   We did a quick visit at a rice factory on the way back.  My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I saw the unhygienic conditions of the factory!!  I cant even tell you about the spider webs!  Thank goodness rice is boiled for 20+ minutes!   Back to the.hotel for breakfast and we are now lying by the pool waiting for our transport to take us to the airport for our 3 night trip to SA's equivalent to Mauritius - Phu Quoc Island.




Phu Quoc Island

How is this view from my lounger on the beach? They said the sunsets here were to die for here on Phu quoc Island, Vietnam and they weren't wrong!! We have 3 nights here to chill and believe me, I am chilling already! 

Part 1
Hi there from the most beautiful beach of  Phu quoc.   I won’t say most beautiful island resort as the judgment is still out on what I think of Eden resort.   I stupidly read the Trip Advisor reviews while waiting at the airport and there were many negative reviews.  However that gave me the confidence to go back to the reception and request a new room as the one that Ant and I were first given was large but had the worst view over the kitchen ally and overlooked gas bottles and I could hear crashing of the kitchen staff.  The 2 nd window overlooked roofs with 6 geysers in view, one leaking like anything. Ants said not to stress as we would not be in the room much but after I came back into the room to change after our welcome drinks and realized how noisy it would be with the pub close by too, I asked to change.  We now have stunning views in our 4 th floor room, overlooking the garden and sea!  The kids are facing the same way but on the 2 nd floor.  We are just a phone call away at night and I think they are loving the independence.   They have both grown up a lot in 2 weeks, if that is even possible. 

So,  now with my lovely view, I am much happier.  The resort has seen better days.  The decor is rather bland.  No pictures on the walls and could do with a good paint but the beach is just lovely, there are enough pool chairs and towels and the Caesar salad is to die for - even Matt gobbling it up.

Part 2  
Back fromy swim.  The water is just divine.   Blue and warm and the sand is soft and white.  Just like a tropical island is supposed to be.  Yesterday afternoon we swam and watched a sunset to die for and then at 7pm they had free wine tasting and a seafood braai on the beach.  The kids had salad off the a la  cart menu and Ants and I filled up on fresh braaied fish and about 5 salads and of course the buffet desserts which I snuck under the table to the kids!!  It was very pretty with the tables on the beach with candles and all the sparkling lights of the Christmas decorations.  They put on entertainment too - hawaian singing and dancers.  The sound was just awful but the ladies looked like they were having so much fun on stage we found ourselves humming along too!!!

This morning, breakfast was a bit like a sausage factory.   No cutlery.  Queues for the egg. Tomorrow we will go down earlier.  After breakfast Ants and I took a tax to the main town about 8 min drive away.  Just too far to walk in this heat.  We found cheap water and washing powder and strolled around a bit.  Not too much to write home about.  Typical Vietnam in miniature.  There was a brige over a river and there must have been hundreds if motor bike crossing in one direction as the others built up on the other side waiting for their turn !  Back to the hotel for swimming.  Rhe piol is lovely too.  Salad for lunch.  Ant and Matt signed up to do a fishing tour tomorrow and braai on a boat with your money mom.  Sam and I going to have massages on the beach.  We are all off to do a banana boat ride now too.  Tonight we will head back to the town for supper. 

By the way.  Forgot to tell you that both matt and Sam caught a fish at Mr Hai's orchard the other day.  Matt totally addicted to fishing and he is so looking forward to his day out tomorrow. 

Last half hour here before we leave and say goodbye to Vietnam and hello to Cambodia.  It has been a  totally fantastic adventure.  We will all be sad to say farewell but I am sure we will enjoy our last 4 days in Cambodia.   We have heard some good reports from people who have been already.

Last time I typed,  we were just about to hop on the banana boat.  Sam absolutely loved it and especially when Ants and I got thrown off.  We had to do it another time the next day for her.  We had dinner in the main town that night.   We found a Western/Asian restaurant and Matt hit the chips and hamburger with relish.  I had a pizza that was also heaven.   The next morning, the boys went on their fishing and snorkeling adventure.   They absolutely loved it.  Matt tried fishing but then decided the snorkeling looked more fun and he and Ant had a great time bonding
  They had a braai for lunch on the boat and spent the afternoon jumping off the boat and swimming. Sam and I had a very leisurely day on the deck chairs reading and working on our tans.  We went to have our beach massage which was so heavenly I went  back that afternoon to have another one (got to help the Vietnamese economy)!  It was R50 for 40 minutes!!  It was not posh at all.  3 little wooden beds with a mattress under the shade of some umbrellas
  The ladies all chatted away nineteen to the dozen to each other in Vietnamese so not exactly peaceful but great fun.  The lady in the bed next to me was having her lip hair removed by threading.  The ladies were all laughing at her as she was writhing in pain.  Sam really enjoyed it but was shocked that they wanted to pull her shorts down a bit!   My daughter is so modest, not like me who did not care if I flashed off just to get a better massage!!! 

Part 3 
The boys returned at 3.30 and we just relaxed for the rest of the day.  Another totally mind blowing sunset and then we ate supper on the beach at the resort that night again.  Monday night is free cocktail night so Ant was happy.  I must say, they know how to charge for drinks here.   Sprite from the mini bar 30 000 dong, sprite from the restaurant, 40 000 dong and water from the "shop" across the road 17 000 dong! 

Can’t believe tomorrow is Christmas!  I just chuckle whenever I hear the Christmas carols playing - they love Boney M!!!  They play it at every hotel constantly.  Tonight at our hotel I believe we have a special Christmas Eve gala dinner.  I am going to go out and buy the kids some chocolate for their present tomorrow. They haven’t had chocolate for 2.5 weeks!!  Will be the cheapest Christmas present ever!!

The internet in Vietnam has been amazing.  Free Internet at every hotel.  Not sure if Cambodia will be the same!! Hope so.

Merry merry Christmas to you all for tomorrow if I can’t get through to you tomorrow.

Signs you know you have had a good island holiday: Walks on sandy white beaches. Swimming in gorgeously warm blue sea. Lying on sun loungers working on a tan. Drinking cocktails under the shade of palm trees. Having family fun on banana boat rides. Dad and son fishing and snorkeling. Mom and daughter having cheap massages on the beach. Eating delicious foods and tropical fruits.


Cambodia

Just to let you know we have arrived safely in Siem reap.   It looks absolutely gorgeous.   Far quieter in this town driving in.  We had a special gala dinner at the hotel.   Everything was set up around the pool area with lights and entertainment and it all looked beautiful.  Too many people for a really enjoyable buffet dinner.  Long queues etc.  We didn't stay long as Matt now feeling nauseous.   We have a really early start tomorrow.  We leave at 5 am for the sunrise at the Angkor Wat.  We get a pad kos breakfast as we go straight from one temple to the next.  I think it is S and M's idea if hell but this part of the trip is Antony’s dream.


Angkor Wat - Siem Reap

It was a rather weird Christmas.  Not Christmassy at all actually even though the build up was quite big with lights and carols and trees up etc.  No one wished us anywhere we went today but we did see the odd tourist wearing a red father Christmas hat.

Our day started super early with a 4.15 am wake up.  It was off to see the sunrise at the Angkor Wat.  Every tourist in town had the same idea as us and we all stood around the lake patiently waiting for the sun to rise.  It was so dark walking in but quite mystical.   Finally, the sky changed from a foreboding black to light to a slight pink and then after waiting nearly an hour, the sun peaked out on the right of the temple.  There were so many heads in front of me and I don't think I have the award winning shot but it was such a special start to our day.  We then ate our packet breakfast.   I ordered tea but they don't serve it with milk.  I got condensed milk instead.   I guess sweet tea is better than drinking unpasteurised milk!! 

We then had about an hour or so tour round the temple. I was blown away by the amazing stone carvings and sculptures. 

We also visited Ta Prohn - the tree temple and where they filmed Tomb raider with Angelina Jolie.

The temple has the most  incredible trees and huge roots growing out of it.  A lot of the temple is being restored.  Some places are just a pile of stone and other parts beautifully restored.

Merry Christmas from Angkor Wat, Cambodia, to my amazimg friends and family! We have been up since 5am to see the sunrise. What a stunning way to start the day xx


Phone going to die so will send this quickly.   Will write more tomorrow but bed calling too!

We came back to the hotel at 10.30 for much needed nap!!!

This afternoon we had the most amazing experience:   Quad biking in the country side!!  I was so nervous on my bike

I felt like I was going to topple over so I got a guide to sit behind me for support.  Besides, we had to sign a contract to say we would pay for damages if we crashed.   Sam also had a guide sitting behind her and Ant and Matt went together.   I lasted about 10 min.  I didn't enjoy the driving.   I swapped with the guide and had the happiest 3 hours being driven in style while I snapped away.  I could never have taken photos otherwise.   Sam drove the whole time! ! She was incredible! !!!  On the nain road for a bit and then over dirt roads.   She is such a biker chick.  Matt loved it too.  We had bought some things for the local kids and stopped to hand out balls to a few of them

We stopped off at a local school in the rural village and played Santa to the kids! 
They were so happy and played with Sam and Matt and then showed us the class rooms and Sam played teacher and got them all to sing. ( There was not teacher around.  She had gone into town but there must have been about 30 kids on their own!  Matt played ball with them and they all gave him high fives.  So an amazing experience!

I tried to get you mom but sorry, no luck.  Sorry I woke you early Graeme.!!

Such a fantastic day! We went on a quad bike adventure and stopped off at a local school in the rural village and played Santa to the kids. Such a priviledge.

Sam was incredible and drove on her own for 3 hours on main and village roads!! I had a driver and sat behind him and happily snapped away!! At the school, Sam played teacher and sang them a song and then they sang to her. Matt and the boys threw ball to each other!! (Photos taken from camera viewfinder so rather poor)


Phnom Penh

Wow.  Our last full day today and my last night on a comfortable bed before we fly home tomorrow night.  It was a very emotional day as we first visited the genocide museum (Tuol Sleng).  The 4 buildings used to be a school before 17 April 1975 when Pol Pot ordered it to be Office 21.  It was designed for the detention, interrogation, inhuman torture and killing of detainees.  There were 4 areas of cells to walk through.  Each cell had a blown up photograph of a dead prisoner that had been found on the bed when Cambodia was "liberated" by the Vietnamese in 1979.  The second building housed photographs of all the prisoners when  they  first came to the detention centre inc women.  When I saw a photo of a woman with her baby in her arms and knowing her ultimate fate, it was just too much for me what with the emotions of the last few days.  Ant and Matt carried  on and at the end of the tour they met the 2 of the only 7 survivors from this time.  They both wrote a book on their experiences and they chat to people and sell the book at the museum.

The next stop was the Russian market where you could literally buy anything.   Ant told the guide we could only stay for 30 min as he knows how Sam and I are at markets!!

Final stop for the day was the Killing fields 15 km outside of town.  Most of the 17000 detained at Tuol Sleng were eventually transported to Choeung Ek, a mass grave.  It is now a memorial to those killed by the the Khmer Rouge Rule.  The remains of 8985 people were exhumed and their skulls are kept in a memorial stupa.  Very chilling but the gardens are quite peaceful.  You can see pieces of cloth and bones on the ground still that keep washing up as it rains.  There are still many more graves that have not been exhumed.   Sometimes it is hard to believe human beings are capable of such terrible acts.

We came back to the hotel.  I slept solidly for 2 hours even missing lunch.  This afternoon we took the tuk tuk to the ricer and got on a boat and had a sunset cruise. It was the same tuk tuk driver as yesterday and he is so sweet.  We invited him to come with us on the river.  He was like the cat with the cream as he had never been in a boat on the river before.   He had only ever dropped his passengers off.  We found a restaurant called the Titanic.  It was so beautiful and we sat right at the water.   It was a great way to end off our last Asian dinner.  Sam then used the last of your money mom and we had another mom and daughter massage at the spa at the hotel.  It is so much cheaper that at home!!!  I have had 5 massages this holiday and should have the most knot free shoulders in town.

Tomorrow we see the royal palace and then leave for the airport at 2.  Sad my holiday has come to an end but think I am now ready for my own bed and pillow! !!




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