SW ENGLAND, WALES AND SCOTLAND

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From Post Cards

Stratford Upon Avon

We’ve just spent a wonderful weekend with Ally’s aunt in Coventry – she’s a real “sweetie” and sent us home with tonnes of biscuits. We visited Stratford Upon Avon nearby. On Friday I leave for Wales and S.W. England and am very excited to explore. I’ll let you know about all my experiences.

Land’s End
I’ve just arrived at Land’s End, England’s version of our Cape Agulhas – after an invigorating 7 mile hike from the youth hotels in St. Just. Cornwall is absolutely gorgeous – high cliffs and churning seas. I’m having the time of my life.

Cornwall
Greetings from Cornwall. Very chilly but drop dead gorgeous with spectacular views from high sea cliffs. I’m really enjoying the youth hostels. Am meeting so many wonderful people.

Penzance, Cornwall
This is the beautiful town of Penzance. Home of the best fudge and cream and scones I have ever tasted. Cornwall and Devon are the cream tea capitals of the world apparently. A great place to stay if you want to put on weight – think I’ll stay at least a month!

St Michael’s Mount
Isn’t this the most beautiful castle you’ve ever seen? I walked across the pathway to visit it just now and then had to catch a boat back because the tide had risen. I’m waiting for the bus back to the youth hostel – tomorrow I think I’m going to start making my way east into Devon country. Decisions, decisions.

Dartmouth
This is the beautiful little seaside resort of Dartmouth. I hiked here early this morning along the river forests. I visited the most beautiful castle right on the estuary mouth and gorged myself again on Devon clotted cream and scones. Delicious!

I’m sure I’ve been on this steam train through Devon before, because I keep on getting strong feelings of de-ja-vu. Devon is stunning with green lush hills and the bluest ocean I’ve ever seen. I’m staying in a youth hostel near Brixham high in the hills above the Dartmoor River.

Slapton Sands
From Dartmouth, I made my way down to Kingsbridge. On the way I passed this beach. It was used in the 2nd World War as a training spot for the D Day landings. They found a submerged tank in the sea a few years back – the fishermen kept snagging their lines in it!

Pembrokeshire Coast – South West Wales
I spent two glorious days exploring the magnificent Pembrokeshire Coast of South West Wales. Long hikes along sandy beaches and huge cliffs. I went on a boat trip to see birds on Ramsey Island Nature Reserve – saw thousands of breeding birds and seals. I met a really friendly English girl with a mini (rather cramped) but a great way to see parts of the park I couldn’t walk to.

I hiked 12 miles along these cliffs. Every so often there would be a secret cove to explore. Isolated and beautiful. I accidentally stumbled on a couple swimming nude – much to our mutual embarrassment!

Salcombe
I stayed at this gorgeous little seaside village for 3 nights, spending lazy days exploring the coast either side. The youth hostel was situated in a sub tropical garden with awesome views from a high cliff.

Bristol
I spent a very enjoyable afternoon and night in Bristol viewing all the city sights. Had my first experience of a youth hostel in a large city – much busier and fuller! I went to see a very scary late night movie – the walk back to the hostel through dark alleys was scarier!

Bath
These are the Roman Baths in Bath. The water is still hot and steaming from the hot spring. If it hadn’t been so green, I would have felt tempted to jump in. For 50 pence you could drink the natural spring water but it was warm and smelled of rotten eggs so I declined and had a coke instead.
What a stunning place. The Romans built an amazing ancient bath here making use of the hot spring in the city. Spent two fantastic days here exploring – the most stunning Georgian architecture I’ve ever seen and great museums and abbeys. I stayed at Back Packers, much more permissive than youth hostels – mixed dorms and raucous parties!

Wiltshire

I used Bath as a springboard to explore Wiltshire. Had great views of Stonehenge and the Avebury Stone Circle. Eerie to think they were built + 5,000 years ago with nothing but hands, ropes and pulleys. Visited a little bar in Lacock Village with an old dog wheel – dog power to drive the boiler – did not approve!

Would you believe this – built by prehistoric people with nothing but deer antlers for spades. Over a million hours of work! And there is nothing in it – no tomb, nothing. Seems like a bit of a waste of effort, really. Some learned professors think it’s a fertility monument of a woman’s pregnant tummy – used for prehistoric orgies in May. Interesting!

Castle Combe

I’ve discovered paradise – a quaint 15th century village, voted the most beautiful village in England in 1962 and set of Dr Dolittle movie in 1967. Exquisite little cottages and a church but not cheap to live here – the smallest cottage sells for 300,000 pounds!

I was walking past this really old cathedral and I heard beautiful singing from inside, so I went in to find a choir of young chaps, all dressed in ruffs and cassocks like I used to wear, singing the same anthems I used to sing 15 years ago. It was really moving –brought back some strong memories.

Snowdonia

I met up with two really nice guys from Chicago and we spent two days hiking the Snowdonia mountains. We scaled the Snowdon peak, the highest peak in England and Wales. Gorgeous scenery and the weather was warm and clear which is a miracle for this area apparently. Mark and Alex are both 100 mile long distance running competitors – so I felt very proud to be able to keep up. I’ve never been so super fit in my life. I seem to walk an average of 15 miles or more every day.

To get to the top of the Snowdon peak we had to balance our way along this very narrow ridge with massive cliff drops on either side. There were times when the ridge was less than a metre wide. Certainly not part of the trip that I’ll ever forget!

Here is one of the stunning lakes we passed during our hike through Snowdonia. We were tempted to swim buy it was icy cold –not surprising when you consider that most of the water is snow that had recently melted.

Beddgelert

We spent a very enjoyable day walking to this little village through the mountains. This village has been voted “most scenic village” in Wales. The flowers were in full bloom – really pretty. After our 18 mile hike to the village, we decided to catch the bus back to Llanberg.

Caernarfon Castle

I spent a morning in Caernarfon, viewing all the sights. The castle was particularly impressive, one of the largest castles I’ve ever seen and right on he edge of a blue lagoon. I had to say goodbye to Mark and Alex today which was sad because we’ve had some great times. They’re off to the Lake District, I’m heading to Scotland.

Stirling

I arrived in Edinburgh last night, what a stunning city! Today I’ve taken a day trip to Stirling where the Scottish won a decisive victory against the British in + 1290 thanks to their hero, William Wallace. I’ve wanted to come here ever since watching the brilliant movie “Braveheart” with Mel Gibson. A beautiful town with monuments, castles and gorgeous scenery. I go back to Edinburgh tonight and will see all its sights tomorrow.

I’m lazing in the hot sunshine in Edinburgh Park. Everyone has taken off their tops to sunbathe. I’ve never seen so much white flesh in all my life! This post card is very appropriate – I’ve seen all the sights on it, except I didn’t stay in the hotel but in a dingy but delightfully fun and friendly hostel in Princes Street. The castle here is awesome with close on 1000 years of rich Scottish history. All round, a really gorgeous city. From here I go back to London. It’s been close on three weeks since I left for my England trip. It’s been fantastic.

London

Well, I’m back in London for a few days – it’s wonderful to see Ally again. She is off to Paris, me to Amsterdam, so we’re relaxing and re-charging our batteries.

Ally and I took a drive with Colleen to Beaconsfield just outside London. There we visited the oldest model village in the world – tiny houses, churches, castles, hotels and railways. The entire town, down to the tiniest detail, is in minute scale. Amazing – it made me feel like a kid again, particularly all the trains!

Oxford

I spent a lovely day walking the stretch of Oxford, exploring this beautiful university town. I visited one of the best known colleges (Magdelon) and was lucky enough to hear their famous boy’s chorister choir (moved me to tears, so good). Also saw punters on the river and all the other well known sights. What a place to spend your student years.

Letter dated 28/4/97

Hi there Mum, Jo, Gran, Gramps & Antony

How are you all doing? Isn’t modern technology wonderful! A couple of taps on the computer keys, a push on the “send” button and this message arrives instantly in South Africa. No envelope, no stamps, no fuss. I’m typing this letter from Ally’s computer at work. It’s 6pm and I’m not really supposed to be here – tight company security and all that – but she managed to smuggle me in without anyone seeing and she’s even managed to get me some free corporate fizzy drink from the kitchen, so I’m sitting here in the lap of luxury on her very comfortable company chair.

It’s only been about 10 days since I got here and I’m already missing you very much. I have really enjoyed my time in London so far, I’ve had a wonderfully hectic time of running around seeing all the sights. It really is the most amazing city; I reckon a traveller could rush around London every day for ten years and still not see all there is to see.

I think I told you about my flight – it was a real marathon affair taking 5 hours more than expected. First there were delays in Windhoek – and believe me, there isn’t much to do in Windhoek airport except sit and tap your feet – and the we were held up for two hours in Frankfurt airport in Germany which was supposed to be a quick “land and take-off” affair. I was very relieved when I finally landed in Heathrow at noon, and so was Ally who had been waiting since 7:00am. Needless to say, Ally and I threw ourselves into a blissful, close embrace, made all the closer by the fact that we hadn’t seen each other for three whole months. We rushed for the tube station so we could be properly reunited – only to be forced to sit around on the train at Heathrow station for another hour. It turns out there was a “suspect” package on the railway which the authorities suspected to be an IRA bomb, thus causing more delays. How frustrating!

As you know, Ally is living in North Acton with three Irish housemates – Teresa, Eilean and Helen. They are really delightful girls and have made me feel very welcome. Ally has moved out of her small room into a luxuriously spacious “pad” with a spectacular view which is a good thing because neither of us are the tidiest in the world and a tiny room would definitely cause “domestic frictions”.

Ally took the Thursday and Friday off from work so we enjoyed a nice relaxing long weekend. Pippa, my ex “partner” from Old Mutual was in London for a few days with her fiancée, Rob, so we met them in Hyde Park for a meal and a walk. I must say, Rob is a very nice guy although I don’t know that she is going to see him much. He is a high flying management consultant who flies all over the world. Rob went back to work after lunch and Pippa, Ally and I then went for a walk to Harrods where we lusted after all the goodies on sale.

Ally and I have also been spending quite a bit of time with her friend Colleen and her boyfriend, Mike. We all went to a traditional Irish pub the other night where I was re-acquainted with Guinness; it really is the most delicious stuff. I can’t wait to travel around Ireland and sample Guinness at every pub I come to. We also visited Kew Gardens, the famous garden for the Royal Palaces. It is about 250 years old, nearly as old as South Africa! Kew Gardens is dotted with huge Victorian greenhouses full of plants from all over the world. It is so hot inside that Ally’s glasses kept steaming up.

Kew Gardens is home to the longest living pot plant – and guess where it is from? Yes, indeed, sunny South Africa! It dates from 1785. Fame at last for S.A. horticulture!

Unfortunately Ally had to go back to work, and I must say she is working exceedingly hard. She works five days a week at Ernst and Young and is rarely home before 7pm. Then four days a week (including at least one Saturday or Sunday) she works at a pub and often only gets home at 1am. She has decided to give up the pub job, about which I am relieved, and ask her Ernst and Young boss for one pound per hour raise to compensate. I don’t think she’ll struggle to get it, she works very hard.

When Ally goes to work I hit the London sights. I have become addicted to London’s museums – they are absolutely spectacular. The first museum I visited was the British National Museum (dedicated to ancient artefacts from ancient cities including real mummies from Egypt and the original Rosetta Stone. For the first time in my life, I was actually glad I did Latin at school because I could understand the inscriptions on the Roman statues.

I also visited the Museum of the Moving Image (all about the history of cinema and television) and the Natural History Museum (all about the evolution of animals and plants). Then, the other day, I went to the Imperial War Museum which was particularly fascinating – all about first and second world war. It included an “actual London Blitz” experience where we were all stuffed into a small room, the lights went out, and we were subjected to a barrage of huge blasts and shakes like those experienced in the bomb shelters in London during the 2nd World War. I remember Granny telling me about her experiences in the bomb shelters in London, and I must say, Gran, it was terrifying.

Also rather terrifying was the “London Dungeon”, London’s museum of torture and punishment – and all sorts of other ghoulish things – full of gruesome models and awful sounds. They had a particularly nasty section all about Jack the Ripper. The highlight of the tour was getting into a boat which took us along a tunnel of unexpected nasties, including a sudden 6 foot plunge down a kind of waterfall in the pitch black. I wouldn’t want to do it again in a hurry, but it certainly was an experience.

On Friday I went on a fantastic tour of London on a traditional open air bus. You pay a set amount, then you can use the bus service the whole day, jumping on and off whenever you want. I got to see St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Fleet Street, London Bridge and Tower, the English Stock Exchange (quite a thrill for me, actually), St James Place, Fire Monument Tower (311 steps to get to the top but oh, what a view!) and Trafalgar Square to name but a few. I froze on top of the bridge (the English summer hasn’t quite arrived yet) but had a great time.

Oh, by the way, I managed to get tickets for Phantom of the Opera. They are not easy to get because the show is booked out for months in advance, but I managed to get a relatively cheap ticket. Seats were not great but the show was unbelievable, certainly an experience I will never forget. Ally got ½ price tickets for Jesus Christ Superstar from work, so I’ll be spoiled again on Wednesday night.

Talking of which, Ally’s company had their delayed Christmas party two nights ago – which was held at (wait for it) – the Hilton Hotel. A fairytale evening of eating and dancing to a live band. It was a wonderful evening and I was very glad I had bought my suit from home – although even then I was rather underdressed as most wore dinner jackets. It was great to meet all Ally’s work colleagues – they are a really friendly group.

Yesterday I went to “Speaker’s Corner” at Hyde Park where every Sunday, people are encouraged to stand up on boxes and have their say about whatever they want to or believe in. It is mostly religious fanatics and other crackpots who take the limelight, but there were also a couple of highly entertaining and amusing speakers. Gramps, I immediately thought of you. I think you would have been an excellent addition to the proceedings.

Last night, Ally and I went to the famous Porchester Turkish Baths for several hours of unadulterated pleasure. Adorned in gorgeous marble arches and floors, the spa contains steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge pools and massage rooms. Mum, I think you would have been in seventh heaven. I can quite easily see why you are so passionate about the Rustenberg health hydro when you go there!

Oops, we’ve just had a security guard look into the room, I’m trying to look like a member of the Ernst & Young staff but that is not easy in my jeans and tackie’s! I think it is time that I make a move. Time to hit the tube! I must say I’m becoming an absolute pro at finding my way around. And I’ve never done so much walking in all my life.

I promise to write again soon. I’m probably going to Wales this weekend and will tell you all about it. I’m missing you all very much and can’t wait to hear some of the things that have been happening in your lives.

Speak to you son.

Love Graeme



Letter dated 2nd June 1997

Dear Mum, Gran & Gramps, Jo and Ant

Hello, hello, hello! I’ve just arrived back in London after my three week back-packing trip to SW England, Wales and Edinburgh. It was absolutely fantastic. The travel bug has got me well and truly hooked! I can’t wait for my trip to Amsterdam and the Netherlands starting on Thursday. Anyway, I thought I’d drop you a line and let you know what I’ve been doing. The postcards I sent probably tended to be a little cryptic at times. There really isn’t much space to put in details. But at least they show some of the sights I’ve seen – and they will provide a really valuable record for me to remember my trips by.

After my last Email to you all I spent just over a week more in London, seeing some more sights. I caught the Dock Road railway (an automatic electric train with no driver!) to Greenwich to see the Observatory and jump from East to West in one bound. It was a beautiful sunny day but silly me thought the English sun had no sting – so I proceeded to get rather burnt! Then I caught a lazy ferry along the Thames to see London from a different angle.

Ally and I went to see Jesus Christ Superstar (absolutely brilliant). We had really nice seats unlike some poor sods that had to sit behind the stage with wonderful views of the actor’s backsides and not much else! I’m enthralled by the London shows, they really are addictive, and so to add spice to the experience I went and visited the Theatre Museum to get a taste of the history of theatre and how modern shows are put together. Very interesting. Since then, I’ve also seen Miss Saigon (so sad, the ushers served Kleenex with the programs) and The Importance of being Oscar – all about the triumph and tragedy of Oscar Wilde – amazing – there was only one actor and the show was two hours long, including long memorised excerpts from Wilde’s plays, poems and novels. How the chap remembered all his lines I’ll never know.

On one day I went for a walk in Regents Park and phoned Ally – a good old “I just called to say I love you” type thing. Suddenly the door of the phone box is yanked open and a policeman pulls me out, demanding to know who I was talking to and what I’d been saying. Obviously the Brits aren’t too big on slushy romance! It turns out that an IRA chap had just used the phone to make a bomb threat. The police had traced it and had pounced. I explained that I was speaking to my girlfriend, and once the bobby had verified it by speaking to Ally herself (who was a bit shaken, as you can imagine), he apologies in a stiff upper lip fashion and gave me 10 pence to put towards my call!

Other interesting excursions: Ally and I ate at a Japanese noodle bar called Waggamamas. Real cheap, tasty food and brilliant service – because the waiter takes the number of your order, punches it into a remote control terminal on his arm and the kitchen instantaneously receives it. How’s that for “hi-tech” food! Then one afternoon I was looking for some “alternative” entertainment so went to the Old Bailey law courts and sat in on some juicy trials, watching the pompous, bewigged lawyers and judges doing their thing. Fascinating stuff – for an hour or so but then the novelty started to run a bit thin!

Ally and I spent a very enjoyable weekend in Coventry, staying at Ally’s aunts. She is very sweet and friendly and most importantly, a fantabulous cook who thinks both Ally and I are far too thin. We ate like kings and arrived back laden with cakes and other delicious homemade goodies. We used Coventry as a springboard to visit Stratford on Avon where, of course, Shakespeare was born. I must say, I’ve forgiven Shakespeare for all the hours of inflicted boredom he bestowed on us at school and dare I say, started to develop a real respect for the old bard. Although, I have to say, his plays are far better digested as real plays (and of course movies) than read out of dog eared books like at school.

Then, Ally and I said our farewells and I put on my mighty backpack and went off on my trip. I caught the train to Lands End in deepest Cornwall and stayed at a remote Youth Hostel, right on the desolate Cornwall cliffs (worth the 3 mile walk from the bus station!). I spent a glorious couple of days exploring the coastal scenery – desolate, rugged cliffs, stunning rock formations, churning seas, diving sea gulls). Also explored some of the towns like St Just and Penzance (with its awesome St Michael’s Mount, an island castle that you can walk to in low tide but have to catch the boat back. One poor old gent decided he didn’t want to pay the 70 pence for the boat, so put on his wellies and bounded along the path as the tide came up. He might have done o.k. if the wind hadn’t suddenly come up and utterly drenched him in blown cold watery spray. By the time he made it over, he would have made a drowned rat look coiffed!

Then to the lush, green paradise that is Devon where I stayed in a Youth Hostel overlooking the River Dart. Relatively close to the resort of Paignton. Devon brought back some really strong memories from when I was six years old, particularly when I went on the old Steam Train that travels along the coast and river. The Maypool hostel was almost deserted on the first night and I felt a bit lonely – hoped some people would arrive. My wish was answered, the next evening 90 screaming French twelve year olds (a school outing group) descended on the place. Needless to say, dawn the next morning, I got the hell outa there! I hiked through the river valley to the very pretty town of Dartmouth (with its castle at the estuary mouth) and hiked in the Little Dartmoor (more stunning scenery). I was stung b a nettle which brought more memories of being in Devon when I was six!

From Dartmouth to Kingsbridge past awesome beaches like Slapton Sands, then to Salcombe (mecca of yachting enthusiasts) and from there a ferry to White Sands with its youth hostel situated in tropical gardens on the cliff edge. I spent two great days hiking the area with a really nice guy I met (an Essex chap who works for Sainsbury with excellent tips on how to get discounts on their desserts) – more cliffs, but with gorgeous sandy coves nestled here and there, so tucked away that a poor couple thought it was safe to swim nude until I bounded unexpectedly onto the scene with my binoculars hanging from my neck. Not a pretty sight – with all that white, pale flesh exposed to sight!

Then I caught the train to Bristol for some city life. I caught the sights, then went to a horror movie called “The Relic” and didn’t enjoy my walk back to the hostel along the dark streets!

From Bristol to Bath – what a gorgeous city! Deep under the city is a huge ruin of an ancient Roman Bath that was built on a hot spring. The spring is still steaming hot to this day, as it flows through the ancient Roman pools and tunnels. The urge to jump in was extremely strong, unfortunately it is not open for bathing. What a waste of paradise! But fascinating nevertheless. Bath also has inspired Georgian architecture including its famous masterpiece – a stunning row of houses known as “The Crescent”. Excitement! - on a warm evening I was lazing in a park admiring this view and watching hot air balloons take off all around. Suddenly a balloon misjudged its take off and went crashing into the roof of the Crescent, knocking down three of its chimneys and taking out half the roof. Chaos reigned as police cards and the entire fire department descended on the place – headline news the next day – and it all happened less than 50 metres away from where I was sitting.

From Bath I went on a zany “Mad Max” tour of Wiltshire – where I got to see Stonehenge, Silbury Hill, Lacock Village (its pub has a wheel that was turned by a running dog, in the same way as a hamsters exercise wheel, in order to produce heat for the generator. Apparently the dog’s incentive to keep running was a hot coal placed on the circle just behind the poor mutt. Don’t think the SPCA would approve!), the Avebury Stone Circles (largest henge in Europe, with a burrow 9 metres high that took over 1.5 million man hours to build, using deer antlers as spades. According to learned professors, the latest theory is that the henge was a prehistoric fertility “pleasure park” – where orgies would take place each May. This festival is the fore-runner of our current day “May” day festival – interesting. Finally Castle Comb – a beautiful English village that was voted prettiest village in England in 1962 and the set for the 1967 movie “Dr Dolittle”.

From Bath to the Pembrokeshire National Park in S.W. Wales – undoubtedly some of the best scenery I’ve ever seen. I hiked for miles (never walked so much in all my life) through the park. The coast here has been ravished by the sea with towering islands of rock and deep sea caves. I met an old man at the hostel who could barely walk or talk, yet here he was, bundu bashing. Don’t know how though, just getting into bed took him 20 minutes of agonised grunts and groans. Inspiring though, that he won’t let himself be beat!

From the coast I went by boat to the Island of Ramsey, a bird reserve, and got to see millions of breeding sea birds (which for me, as a passionate bird watcher/twitcher, was pure heaven). I met a really nice Bristol lass and spent some time travelling and sight seeing with her in her tiny mini. Pure luxury after all the backpacking.

From Pembrokeshire to the Snowdonia National Park in North Wales, home to the Snowden Peak, the highest mountain in England and Wales (not that much higher than Table Mountain) – but it was fun to climb, especially along the route we chose along a deathly narrow ledge with 1,000 foot drops on BOTH sides. Felt like I was a tight roper at times and wasn’t adverse to sliding along on my backside – who cares about the image! I spent most of my time in Snowdonia with two really nice chaps from Chicago – keeping up with them was tough though because they are both 100 mile “mega marathon” runners back home. But they were more scared of heights than me, so I got my own back! The weather in Snowdonia was awesome which is a miracle for this area – normally it is under snow and cloud. I’m one of a tiny select group to have seen the Snowdon Peak from down at base camp.

Then to Edinburgh to see the castle on the hill and meet some “Scotts”. Really friendly people apart from their dietary liking for haggis (cow guts tastefully wrapped in an intestinal lining). I’d been through Edinburgh before on my way to North Scotland, but from the highway it looked like a dump so we passed right by. Only later did I hear that it is probably the most beautiful city in Britain with tonnes of wonderful culture. And I must say, it didn’t disappoint.

One of the more unusual tours I did was a scary tour of Edinburgh’s underground city – dark vaults and tunnels and chambers where the poor were forced to live in the old days when they couldn’t afford to live elsewhere. Of course, hundreds died in the damp and the dark, so now the vaults are haunted (according to our tour guide). In the pitch black, we were regaled with scary stories of spirits, ghosts and witches from Edinburgh’s past – all of which was rudely ended off with a n enormous “boo” as a figure leapt from the roof to give us the fright of our lives. And to think I paid pounds to have a heart attack!

From Edinburgh I visited Stirling where William Wallace (alias Mel Gibson, in Braveheart) won the famous Battle of Stirling against the Brits. I climbed the steps to the top of the Wallace Monument. Who would have thought that Hollywood would lead to such cultural explorations!

Well, that brought my trip to an end. I hurtled back to London for recuperation in Ally’s arms and to book my trip to the Netherlands. We’ve spent a relaxing weekend doing nothing (well, almost!). I leave for Amsterdam on Thursday.

Well that’s all for now. Travelling is great, but I’m really missing you all. It was wonderful to receive all your letters when I got back. I’m glad that everything is going o.k. Gran and Gramps, I was sorry to hear about your tummy bugs, I hope you’ve fully recovered. There is nothing worse than that – although I suppose you’d better get prepared for it in India! Have you guys seen any good movies recently? With the cost of movies here in London I can only afford to see a movie if I know it’s going to be really good!

Mum, it was wonderful to hear all your news. You certainly seem to be very busy! How is your new job going? And crochet – or is the weather getting in the way? And have you had any good bridge hands lately? Any more weekends away?

Jo, hope you enjoy Langebaan this weekend. I’ll be in Amsterdam. Ally will be in Paris to see her mum. What a tough life! Hope your exams went o.k., at least they are finally over so you can relax! Ant, hope you’re not working too hard. Although, I know careers can take over. I’ve really been missing those games of volleyball and poker.

I must go now, Ally is very tired. It’s 9:23pm and we’ve still got to find some supper and get the wretched tube. Then walk 30 minutes. Oyh for my little car – perched up on all those blocks!

Speak to you soon. I promise to keep the old postcards rolling in!

Ciao



Poetry

Little Dartmouth

The river estuary disappears behind the hills towards a hidden castle,

past hills clothed in bushes of orange

and tenacious trees that cling to the sea coast below.

Grassy fields slope up and away,

as a solitary yacht heads out to sea

between islands of rock.

A buzzard swoops and soars and sea gulls pass on open wings.

Little birds chatter from the hedges and trees.

The sun warms the nip in the breeze.

I sit.

Content.

The Sleepy Village

Soaking up the morning sun on a bus-stop bench, my eyes follow the River Dart

past yachts and ferries and fishing boats.

Behind me, Dartmouth yawns and stretches

savouring her peace

before the steam train arrives

to pour forth her torrent of tourists.

Next to me, an elderly couple passes gentle comments to and fro,

while men lazily man their boat cruise kiosks along the bank.

South Sands

The river embraces her estuary

before spreading into a vast, open sea.

Fluffy clouds float as calm in the quiet sky

as the boats on the blue waters below.

At my feet, the tropical garden explodes

into green hues of every shade.

Birds celebrate the close of day

with their chirps and twitters as

the subtle scent of sweet flowers

wisps through the air.

The Cove

Nestled between rocky shores

lies a beach of soft sand and speckled pebbles

with a tangled border of sea weed along the water's edge.

The sea is a sparkling, emarald green with a stab of red

where a little boat bobs on rhythmic waves.

The entrance to the beach is steep and rugged

over weather eroded rocks and earth.

Scantily clothed in grass and flowers, the earth pokes through, here and there,

like scalp on a balding head.

Salty Pebbles

Pebbles at the water's edge - a multitude of sizes and rounded shapes.

Some speckled, some unblemished and glistening wet in the sun.

The sea slides over the pebbles on its little surges up the beach, surging forwards, then sighing back in retreat.

I put a tiny round pebble in my mouth and taste its salty smoothess.

My senses are enthralled by the beauty of this place, far from the world's gaze.

Travel Notes


Cornwall

• Caught British Rail to Penzance. Had problem with my ticket - had to exchange at Victoria 3 hours delayed. Then bus to Land's End and a walk to Land's End Youth Hostel at St Just. Beautiful coastal country with rugged cliffs.
• My first experience of Youth Hostels, very friendly. Steve, a Brit, is walking the 900 mile SW Coast Path. My foot is giving hiccups.
• An invogorating 5 mile walk from St Just to Senne Cove (surfer's paradise and provider of warm coffee) to Land's End where there is a theme park (a bit out of place on the desolate coast. Rugged cliffs, beautiful rock formations, churning seas and diving sea-gulls.
• A bus trip to Penzance and an awesome view of St Michael's Mount - what a beautiful castle! I walked across the path to the island, then had to catch the boat back because the tide had risen. Old chap walks across to avoid paying 70 pence - sopping wet.
  Stayed night again at Land's End Youth Hostel.

Devon

• A train journey to Plymouth, the largest city in the SW. The bus service to Dartmoor (Bellever Youth Hostel) not operating, so I travel by bus to Maypool Youth Hostel near Paignton. A brisk 1.5 mile walk up the hills. Great views of the River Dart.
• Caught the steam train to Kingswear, then the ferry across the River Dart to Dartmouth. A walk along the river to the Dartmouth Castle, on the banks of the estuary. Then a lovely walk along the coast through Little Dartmoor. Stung by a nettle. Peaceful and beautiful. Purchased fresh steak and vegetables for supper.
• A huge rabble of french and swedish kids descend upon the Maypool youth hostel . A walk thrught the forrested hills cheers me a bit.
• The morning welcomes with glorious weather. An early hike along the Dartmouth Trail along the misty River Dart to Dartmouth. A splendid bus drive to Kingsbridge with views of Slapton Sands and its tank. Another bus to the village of Salcombe and a ferry to South Sands (a resort near the river estuary).
• A lazy afternoon spent reading the Bourne Identity and napping on the sandy beach - then a short walk up the hill to the Youth Hosel (part of the Overbeck Museum and beautiful gardens) with its panoramic views of the river estuary and sea. Late afternoon garden, then cliff walk.
• A walk along the coast to secret sandy coves and a pebbly beach to a prominent point, peregrine falcons, a rusty wreck, scones at "The Shop on the Top." All in stunning, clear weather. A rush back to get the ferry to South Sands.
• A hike along the coast on the other side of the coast to a cove, past a windy look-out point. Misty and chilly. A snorkel diver caused excitement.
• Had great fun conversations with David, a 29 year old Sainsbury employee from Essex. Also fun with an American couple from California - he an ex Vietnam fighter pilot (marathon man) and his adorable, patient wife.

Bristol

• Caught ferry, bus and train to Bristol. Went for walk at the Harbor but weather rainy. My first experience of a "city hostel." Very different - more people, less easy to make friends.
  An evening walk in Bristol to see the Bristol Cathedral and a scary movie, "The Relic."

Bath

• A wonderful day spent in Bath on an open air bus, viewing this stunning city - the Abbey, Pulteney Bridge, the Circus and Royal Crescent + hill views. Fascinating tours of the Roman Baths (they really knew how to live!) and the Costume Museum. (corsets and unbelievable frames - the things people will do for fashion!)
• Evening relaxation at Royal Victoria Garden watching hot air balloons take off. One hit the roof taking out three chimneys.
• Night spent at Backpackers
• Went on the "Mad Max" tour to Wiltshire. Rainy sights were Stonehenge, Cherhill White Horse, Avebury Stone Circles (largest henge in Europe, 9 m high burrow alone took 1.5 million hours of labour with deer antlers. Ancient scene of orgies around the maypole to conceive in May with different seed. Enormous stone picture of man with enormous erection. Prehistoric or modern?
• Then Silbury Hill, Lacock Village - with lunch at the George with its own original dog wheel. Dog on wheel with hot coal to heat water and produce electricity.
• Castle Comb, a traditional Cotswald village, with cottages from the 14 th century, and voted prettiest village in England in 1962 + set for Dr Dolittle. Doors only 5 feet high.
• Tiny little church, river running through.
• Went to watch "Scream" at the cinema with Jeff, a Canadian.

SW Wales
Next stop is St Davids, Pembrokeshire National Park.

• Walk from Youth Hostel to St Justinian where catch boat round Ramsey Island. First view of several sea bird species as well as incredible sea caves and cliffs. Old man at hostel can hardly walk or talk, yet bundu bashing.
• Fell in love with Becki, an adorable lass from Bristol (Emma Thomson like, social worker, acedemic boyfriend) and meet Graeme, very similar to me with an ex in London.
• Becki drives me to Abercastle, where see ancient tomb. Go under to discover propped up by wooden beams, so much for 5000 years of standing!
• Wonderful long walk from there to St Davids - sights include awesome, sea ravished cliffs, Porthgain harbour ruins and Blue Lagoon.
• Visit St Davids Cathedral (spiritual listening to Choir) and views of the Bishop's Palace.
  Stay last night at a B&B - what luxury!! Go to local pub where try to pick up model of Guiness after fetching pizza. Eat biggest breakfast of my life. Complete book (The Bourne Identity)

North Wales

• Head for Llanberis. A full day of travelling - with Mark and Alex from Chicago to Llanberis Youth hostel. Huge supper at Pete's Eats and short walk to lake.
• Manage to find accomodation despite bank holiday - thank goodness for Backpackers. Then 6 mile walk with Mark and Alex to start of Pyg trail, then up and over knife edge top of Crib Goch (with huge drops on both sides) to summit of Snowdon Peak, highest peak in England and Wales. Steam railway station at top. Miraculous weather. Down the mountain along the railway to a pub garden for a much deserved Guiness. Homemade Welsh stew for supper and breakfast of real Welsh Rarebit.
• A long hike from Llanberis through mountain valleys and pine forests to the tiny village of Beddgelert where a prince mistakenly killed his faithful hound thinking it had killed his son.
• Say goodbyye to Mark and Alex (off to Edinburg). I spend morning in Caernarfon, viewing its famous castle. Then back to Llanbaris for a relaxing afternoon of reading and sleeping.

Scotland

• Travel to Edinburgh, arrive late, go to cinema to watch "Microcosmos" - bump into Mark and Alex.
• Spend night with three long term guests at Princes Backpackers. Room nuked and girls very relaxed!
• Catch train to Stirling for a bit of hero worship. Quick walk to William Wallace monument turns out to be a hike! Fantastic view from the top of Stirling. Then to the old city for views of the castle, old church and cemetary and Stirling bridge.
• Back to Edinburgh where I watch "Female Perversions." Then a night walk along the Golden Mile. Specacular weather and sights. Back to hostel for Reservoir Dogs.
• A glorious day of sunshine viewing the Edinburgh castle - steeped in Scotish history including the crown jewels and Stone of Destiny. Also saw Scotish Regiment museums, War Memorial, dog cemetary and castle prisons and experienced 1 o'clock cannon. A warm sunbathe in the park, then a last night feast at Pizza Land. A "horror tour" of Edinburghs vaults (full of tales of ghosts; then a big fright) Watch "Maverick" till late.
  An interesting look at the National Gallery, then to Royal Museum of Scotland - enough of museums for now!
• Catch train back to London to see Ally again. All in all an absolutely fantastic time - one of the best in my life. The travel bug has got me!!!

London

• Saturday night party at Colleen's - SA vs New Zealanders. We toy toyed to Amabokke and played the end commentary of World Cup.
• Sunday, went on a drive to Beaconsfield in Colleen's car. Visited Beconscott Model Village - oldest model village in world with wonderful trains.
• Monday admin day getting Ally's visa and organising my Amsterdam trip + writing EMails. Ally and I go to delicious curry restaurant. OK till we discover price excludes all but the meat. Wonderful fun with Ally on bottle of wine.
• Tuesday, have my hair cut (very short!!) and go to library + finish E Mails.
• Wednesday, Ally off to Paris, I spend good day at OXFORD. See the old library (5 million books) + city from St Mary's church tower + botanical gardens + Magdalon College (stunning walks round grounds watching punters on river) + massive bookshop + Magdalon even song - choir beyond words!! Phone family at home.

New birds seen (Wales)

Pembrokeshire

• Linnet

Ramsey Island

• Fulmar
• Guillemot
• Kittiwake
• Razorbill

Next stop:

Ireland