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14 December 1997

Jungle trekking in Northern Thailand

From a letter I wrote home

Mae Hong Son is surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountains and forest scenery in Thailand. We organised a 3 day hike through the countryside and it was an unforgettable experience, although steep and challenging at times. In fact, on several occasions, I was reminded only too clearly of the “ups” and “downs” of the Otter Trail. On the first night of the hike, we slept in an isolated village inhabited by an indigenous mountain tribe who has lived the same way for centuries. Our cutlery, cups and plates were carved out of bamboo as we watched. Supper was tasty (albeit bony) squirrel (I kid you not!) freshly killed in the forest. Our second night was spent in a makeshift bamboo shelter deep in the jungle, next to a gorgeous waterfall – a refreshingly cool way to shower in the morning.


The mountain tribe village where we slept on our hike looked similar to this. Huts made of wood, perched on stilts to provide protection from running water during the monsoons. The different tribes all wear their own traditional dress and speak their own dialects. It was very special for us to share their culture for a little while.

 


From my travel journal

Catch bus to Mae Hong Song. 

To guesthouse for trekking. Meet Canadian couple. (director of Sinbad in Cape Town.) We hear all the skinner from Cape Town and about Winnie. Rugby going fantastically - three cheers for Nick Mallet!!! They found mass graves - not so great. The four of us sign up for a three day trek. Try to phone home again without success. Go to a light and sound show on lake with fire lanterns floating high into the sky.

Insight Think of knowledge as a form of exploring - to allow me to better understand and appreciate this amazing world I live in. The same with creative thinking - it gives me new insights, opens up new possibilities and choices.

Sat 13: First day of hike. Steep hill climbing through rain and bamboo forests. Linda and Terry very sweet - talk about Cape Town all time. He is director for TV production "Sinbad" She is cute, thin pixie talkalot (especially about health matters!) Scrap all the time in a jovial way. Everyone exhausted except me. Reach Karen village - stay in local hut. Buffalos, hogs and dogs. Visit Mahu village. Kids and binoculars - standing in rows for their turn. Back to first village to sleep. Christian family with Xmas tree. Carols in Thai. We sing but cannot remember. Shower in river in dark. My mind raced while we hiked but I am feeling good.

I have an amazing spiritual time in forest clearing by moonlight

Sun 14: Wake up to find my binoculars gone. Manage to keep relatively calm - act on what I can - the blade is sharpened in the hottest flame. Local lady finds it. Eat squirrel for breakfast. Hike down steep ravine to our jungle camp. Wash in river. I find my wallet is gone and go to find it. Get lost - scary. La, the guide, goes looking too. Walk to waterfall - with pocket behind falling water. La makes all utensils out of bamboo. Sticky rice. Boil water. Delicious chicken and sauce. Hard bed under banana leaves.

Mon 15: A hard night. Morning shower in waterfall. Most scenic part of hike - big forests with spiritual light. Walk along large river. Ally worse for wear - sore leg but takes it like a pro. I do not support her unfortunately - she is hurt. La is off today - quiet and melancholy in a hurry. But a great hike.

Catch bakkie back to guesthouse. We visit La's restaurant "The Sunflower" to meet La's wife, Fiona. Sad - she is a special person (Australian) and fantastic cook (Lasagne!) and pregnant but La does not seem happy with his life with her. She must be very lonely. But she is following her own path. We all do. I compliment her on her wonderful food and say good things about the hike to others.

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