My favourite photos from our Antarctic and South Georgia adventure. So blissful to go back over the photos and memories.
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
2 August 2023
16 July 2023
5 April 2023
Our Antarctic & South Georgia Adventure: A summary with links
We have recently arrived back from the most extraordinary 20 days in Antarctica and South Georgia. It was epic beyond all description, one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life and hard to do true justice with photographs, although I tried my hardest! Below are some of the highlights of our expedition as well as links to posts providing detailed accounts and photos. Hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed curating it. A wonderful way to relive it all, share the experience and immortalise it in my memory.
Getting Ready
- Inspired by photographer, Peter Eastway, during our Arctic trip, we ask Aurora if we can include South Georgia in our Antarctic itinerary. In hindsight, we are so very glad we did!
- We visit Aurora at their offices. A wonderful presentation of our upcoming expedition from Justin and his team really whets our appetite. What an adventure lies ahead!
Researching content for our Antarctic lessons
- Research topics I helped with include geography & climate, early explorers, The Southern Ocean, Antarctic wildlife and the food chain. Doing the research really added to my experience of the trip.
Getting There
- We get to savour Argentinian steak and red wine at a local grill and enjoy it so much, we go back the following night.
- Gavin, Tanya and I meet Matt (videographer) and Jordan (art expert) for the first time and are delighted how lovely they are. The Frosty Five is thus born. What a team!
- We visit an old theatre converted into an amazing book shop. Tanya is in seventh heaven.
- We explore the touristy town of Urshaia and walk along the water, loving the mountainous backdrop.
- We meet up with Aurora and it is with great delight and relief that we pass our Covid test, a requirement for getting on the ship.
- Gavin, Matt, Jordan and I do a rather cramped taxi tour of Tierra del Fuego. There are some great views at the various stops.
Exploring The Antarctic Peninsula
- We embark on our adventure on the Greg Mortimer and navigate the Beagle Channel before heading out into the open sea.
- On the first evening, we get to meet the captain, ship staff, expedition crew and other passengers. Gavin does an introduction that inspires buy in from all on the ship.
- During our sea voyage, we get reacquainted with ship life (opulent and wonderful with endless good food) and adapt to the rather turbulent motion of the ocean. The Drake Passage is not called the Roaring Forties for nothing. Thank goodness for modern drugs!
- We do some briefings and equipment checks to prepare for our zodiac and land expeditions to come.
- From the ship, we enjoy close views of albatross, petrels and whales.
- Landing on Cuverville Island, we are exhilarated to be in the midst of a huge Gentoo penguin colony with over 6500 breeding pairs.
- In Paradise Harbour, we do a zodiac cruise past beautiful icebergs with shags flying overhead and Gentoo penguins porpoising close by.
- The soaring cliffs of The Lemair Channel are reflected in the ocean at dawn. Sublime!
- At Yalour Islands, we have our first experience of a leopard seal close to our zodiac and then we get to walk on the island, enjoying it's gorgeous mountainous backdrop. The island also provides us with our first experience of Adelie penguins.
- In the afternoon, we land on Petermann Island and walk amongst more Adelie and Gentoo penguins. An inquisitive Gentoo stares at our red flag and a mum feeds its pesky chick.
- At Port Lockroy, located on Goudier Island, there is a red hut with Gentoos in front. Very photogenic. We then head onto Jougla Point where a lovestruck Gentoo couple court and mate in the falling snow.
- We return to the ship to do a polar plunge into the freezing ocean. Exhilarating but I didn't stay in for long!
- In the afternoon, we enjoy the sublime views of Orne Harbour on a zodiac before doing a landing. We now have bragging rights that we have stood on the Antarctic continent. All our other landings so far have been on islands.
- In the evening, we get to feast on a succulent barbecue while whales bubble feed in the harbour and the sun sets. Indescribable!
- Hydrurga Rocks provides us with our first experience of Chinstrap penguins while seals bask on the land and play fight with each other.
- At Cierva Cove, a zodiac cruise gets us close to sculptured icebergs, some with perfect arches framing other icebergs. Photographers heaven! A leopard seal skins a penguin by shaking it violently while birds flutter above to get some scraps. Macabre but mesmerising.
- To our disappointment, we miss out on climbing the volcano at Penguin Island due to large swells.
- Passing Elephant Island and Cape Lookout, we head for South Georgia, three days away. During the voyage, there are lots of interesting lectures to listen to and Gavin also does an inspiring presentation to the ship.
- We play lots of games of cards. Our favourite expression is "Let me show you how it is done in the pros!" while revealing a winning (or losing) hand.
- From the ship, I get to photograph albatross. They come wonderfully close and I get a real sense of just how enormous their wingspan is.
Exploring South Georgia
- Cruising through the magnificent Drygalski Fjord, we take in the the towering rock walls sprinkled with waterfalls, the soaring ice cliffs and the palatial Risting Glacier ahead of us.
- Cooper Bay provides a Jurassic Park like experience with so much wildlife at close quarters that it fills us with wonder and awe. Macaroni penguins, King penguins, Chinstrap penguins, Fur seals, petrels, pipits, pintails, elephant seals, a leopard seal. An experience none of us will ever forget.
- We have our first experience of a King penguin colony. 50 000 beautiful penguins strut their stuff with a perfect mountain backdrop behind them. Huge elephant seals roar on the beach. It's all enough to leave us speechless.
- We explore this old, abandoned whaling town, feeling sad at all the death that has happened here. Fur seals have reclaimed parts of the town as if to emphasise the resilience of nature over a shameful past of slaughter and exploitation.
- We hike up a hill at Godthul to enjoy wonderful views of the bay and close encounters with baby fur seals lazing on the top of tussock grasses.
- A rainy walk along the beach and estuary of Jason Bay. We see King penguins on their eggs facing up to pesky skuas, female elephant seals, blue eyed shags and terns wheeling and diving in the wind.
- Home to over 60000 King penguins, Salisbury Plain gives us another priceless opportunity to walk amongst these beautiful birds as well as seal mums and their suckling pups.
- Elsehul, a small and picturesque bay on the northwestern coast of South Georgia, is an important breeding site for albatross and petrels, making it a captivating destination for a final zodiac cruise and landing.
Day 16 & 17: Sea crossing from South Georgia to The Falklands Islands
- Two days at sea. We are expecting wild weather and turbulent seas but this never eventuates.
Stopping in The Falkland Islands and Returning to Urshaia
- We explore Stanley, capital city of The Falkland Islands.
- In the evening, there is the captain's farewell and photographers' slide show.
- We disembark early in the morning.
- After a sad farewell to Jordan, we hike up a local mountain.
Heading Home
- We explore the water front and enjoy a scrumptious steak dinner in Palermo.
- After a sad farewell to Matt, we catch a 24 hour flight back to Sydney.
4 April 2023
Our Antarctic & South Georgia itinerary
Our route at a glance
- We embark in Urshaia at the southern tip of Argentina.
- A three day sea crossing of the Drake Passage to the the Antarctic Peninsula where we spend 4 days exploring this icy wonderland.
- A three day sea crossing to South Georgia where we enjoy 5 days of land expedition and zodiac cruises.
- A two day sea crossing to The Falkland Islands where we spend a day exploring its capital, Stanley.
- A one day sea crossing back to Urshaia.
An interactive map of our stopping points and sea crossings
- Click the top left corner of the map below for a list of our stopping points for each day of the trip.
- Click on the top right to see the map enlarged.
- You can also view this map in Google Earth. Very cool!
18 March 2023
Day 8 - 10: Passing Elephant Island and crossing the Scotia Sea
Tanya's Diary
We had an interesting day on the 18th, with the weather deciding most of the day’s activities! The initial plan was to go ashore at Penguin Island, the giant stratovolcano that looms above the surface of the ocean. This volcano was estimated to be last active about 300 years ago. On the east side of the island is ‘Petrel Crater’, estimated to have erupted in or around 1905. Unfortunately, due to the weather conditions – large swells and winds up to 48 knots – we weren’t able to get close enough while maintaining safety for all involved. A heavy mist was rolling in as well, affecting our viewing abilities.
So instead, we decided to take care of the South Georgia biosecurity requirements. These are in place to ensure the safety of the flora and fauna in South Georgia, to protect the ecosystem of the area, and for other general biosecurity reasons. To ensure we are compliant with the protocols, we spend the morning carefully checking our exterior clothing, our gloves, our hiking gear, and anything that would be touching the South Georgian ground. In the lead up to our first landing at South Georgia, in a few days, we will continue to have the occasional biosecurity parties, as we’ve been calling them, to ensure we meet the strict requirements of the area.
We spend the afternoon attending some interesting lectures – Bia speaks on the life of a humpback whale with a talk titled ‘From tropics to ice and back again, and Jeff gives us a history of polar exploration and ‘Shackleton’s Endurance’. As the ship cruises past Elephant Island, we are lucky enough to have a brief window of sun shine down around us – the sky clears up just enough for us to catch a sight of Elephant Island.
We head east across the Scotia Sea and as we travel, fin whales cruise alongside us, seemingly guiding us onwards, in what can only be described as a magical experience. We say our goodbyes to Antarctica and look ahead towards South Georgia.
The 19th and 20th of March were spent crossing the Scotia Sea and as such we made use of our time on board to listen to lectures and record educational content for Upschool. Jeff delivered a lecture on Otto van Nordenskjold’s Swedish Antarctic expedition, Pat delivered one on Antarctic weather, the cyclonic storms of the area and how the weather in the Antarctic region influences the climate of the whole planet. The Upschool team met up with Pat, the marine biologist, to discuss recording the video on wild weather as they anticipated a large storm heading into the Scotia Sea on the 20th March.
The morning of the 20th March took us further across the Scotia Sea towards South Georgia. We enjoy another day of fascinating history and knowledge with a lecture about the seals of the Southern Ocean by Hannah, our naturalist and wildlife specialist on board, and one on whaling and its effects by Bia, a marine biologist. The afternoon brought on the snow storms we were hoping for and we quickly utilised the weather to create the educational lesson with Pat.
As the seas calmed and the winds settled, it was time to get ready for South Georgia and the beauty that we would behold.
My Account
Passing Elephant Island
Elephant Island is is where Shackleton's crew were stranded for several months while he and few others navigated in a tiny vessel to South Georgia to get help during their ill fated 1914 - 1917 expedition to Antarctica. I was struck by how barren, stark and icy it looked. Not the kind of place you'd choose to stay for a long stay unless you really had to!
Wandering albatross off the ship
It was truly wonderful to see the wandering albatrosses glide gracefully close to our ship in the Scotia Sea. These magnificent birds are the epitome of beauty and endurance and are the undisputed masters of The Southern Ocean.
Here are some fascinating facts about wandering albatrosses that make them even more awe-inspiring:
- Wandering albatrosses have the largest wingspan of any bird in the world, which can reach up to 3.5 meters. This allows them to soar effortlessly over vast ocean expanses with minimal energy expenditure.
- These birds are known for their extraordinary long-distance flights. They can travel thousands of miles across oceans without needing to land, and are known to circumnavigate the Southern Ocean three times in a single year, covering over 120,000 kilometers.
- Wandering albatrosses have an impressively long lifespan for a bird, with some individuals living over 50 years. They mate for life and typically lay one egg every other year, taking turns to incubate it and protect it from predators.
- Wandering albatrosses feed on squid, fish, and other marine life. They are known to dive as deep as 5 meters to catch prey, and they can even snatch food from the water's surface while in flight.
- Wandering albatrosses have a complex and intriguing courtship display that includes a variety of vocalizations, bill-clapping, and synchronized movements. These displays help to strengthen the bond between mates and can last for several hours.
- Unfortunately, wandering albatrosses are currently listed as vulnerable by the IUCN Red List, mainly due to threats from longline fishing and plastic pollution. Conservation efforts are underway to help protect these amazing birds and their habitats.
Grey headed albatross
I was thrilled to see the grey-headed albatross for the first time. This species is known for its stunning appearance, with a distinctive grey head, black bill, and a white body with contrasting dark wings. The sight of these beautiful birds in their natural environment was truly mesmerizing.
Here are some interesting facts about grey-headed albatrosses:
- Grey-headed albatrosses breed on remote subantarctic islands, such as South Georgia, Kerguelen, and Crozet Islands. They build their nests on steep, tussock-covered slopes to protect their eggs and chicks from predators.
- These albatrosses primarily feed on squid, fish, and krill. They are known to travel vast distances in search of food, sometimes covering more than10,000 kilometers in a single foraging trip.
- Like other albatross species, grey-headed albatrosses are excellent long-distance fliers. They utilize dynamic soaring techniques to conserve energy and can travel at speeds of up to 68 miles (110 kilometers) per hour.
- Grey-headed albatrosses form long-term monogamous pairs and share the responsibilities of incubating their single egg and raising their chick. The birds return to the same nesting site each breeding season, which occurs every two years.
- Grey-headed albatrosses reach sexual maturity at around ten years of age. Once they reach maturity, they begin their search for a mate and establish their own breeding territory.
- The grey-headed albatross is also classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List. The primary threats to this species include longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation. Conservation efforts are ongoing to protect these beautiful birds and their habitats.
Sooty albatross
Another new species for me, the Sooty albatross is a medium-sized albatross species that primarily inhabits the sub-Antarctic and cool temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Distinguished by its dark, sooty-brown plumage and a wingspan that can reach up to 2 meters, this seabird is well-adapted for long-distance flight. The sooty albatross feeds primarily on squid, fish, and krill, using its sharp beak to snatch prey from the ocean surface. It breeds on remote islands, constructing nests on steep cliffs and slopes to avoid predation. With a low reproductive rate and long-lived life expectancy of up to 40 years, sooty albatross populations are vulnerable to threats such as longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation.
Passing icebergs in the ocean
Extreme video lessons
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| A lesson in the midst of a snow storm |
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| Matt going above and beyond to get the right angle in turbulent seas. What a legend! |
Gavin telling the ship about Upschool
Gavin did his magic and got everyone super excited about Upschool and the importance of using nature in education.
Fascinating lectures from expedition experts
Fun on deck
Original, single photos
17 March 2023
Day 7: Hydrurga Rocks & Cierva Cove
Tanya's Diary
We’ve had another fun-filled day of activities, today! Christian, the expedition leader, wakes us up early with a gentle call over the tannoy – breakfast will be served from 7:00am. Before we know it, we’re heading to the mudroom, pulling on our muckboots, and carefully stepping into the awaiting Zodiac. We’re taken towards Hydrurga Rocks and we all fall silent in awe as we approach the rugged shoreline filled with penguins and seals. The penguins we see around us are called Chinstrap penguins – they get their name from the distinctive black line along their chin, which resembles a chinstrap. They clamber about the rocks around us, making their way in and out of the water. These are the most common penguins in the Antarctic, they are amazing swimmers and can swim up to 25km per hour.
We approach the land and climb out, careful to avoid the fighting fur seals nearby. In a small enclosure, surrounded by rocks, two fur seals approach each other and begin play fighting. They are fairly young and the fighting isn’t so serious, but it is crucial as preparation for becoming an adult in a very competitive world. Matt Iuliano of Wildhearts Creative Media sets up his recording gear and we record a short video with Pat, Aurora Expedition’s marine biologist, about the life cycle of a fur seal. With the seals providing the perfect backdrop, Gavin McCormack and Jordan C Brun also record a video about using animals as the inspiration to designing a book cover.
In the afternoon, we explore Cierva Cove on a Zodiac, taking in the wondrous and epic ice sculptures as they float on the water. Gavin McCormack and Jordan C Brun film a few more educational videos with John, the ornithologist, about the importance of sea ice, the humpback whale and orcas. Jordan C Brun spoke on landscapes, tone and colouration and we finish the day watching the sun sink into the horizon.
As an after dinner treat, Dr Karl speaks on the subject of ‘Weird Science’ and after much fun and laughter, it’s time for Team Frosty Five to rest, ahead of the voyage towards South Georgia across the Scotia Sea.
My Account
Landing at Hydrurga Rocks
Chinstrap penguins
I was thrilled by our encounter with Chinstrap penguins at Hydrurga Rocks, the third species of penguins we got to meet up close.
Here are some interesting facts about them:
- Chinstrap penguins are easily identifiable by the black strap-like marking under their chins, which gives them their unique name. They have black backs, white fronts, and distinctive black faces.
- They are medium-sized penguins, standing around 28 inches (72 cm) tall and weighing between 9 and 14 pounds (4-6 kg).
- Chinstrap penguins are found across the Antarctic Peninsula, South Sandwich Islands, South Orkney Islands, and South Shetland Islands. They prefer rocky and ice-free shorelines for nesting.
- These penguins mainly feed on krill, a small shrimp-like crustacean, but they also consume fish and squid occasionally.
- Chinstrap penguins form large colonies during the breeding season, which lasts from November to March. They build nests using pebbles and stones and lay two eggs, which both parents take turns incubating.
- To thrive in the harsh Antarctic environment, Chinstrap penguins have several unique adaptations, such as a layer of insulating feathers, a countercurrent heat exchange system in their wings, and the ability to store large amounts of body fat.
- The main predators of Chinstrap penguins include leopard seals, orcas, and skuas. To avoid predation, these penguins have developed a tight social structure and often travel in groups.
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| A Chinstrap doing an ecstatic display |
Seals
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| Lots of play fighting and frolicking on the ice |
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| "Yes, you do have bad breath!" |
Birds
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| Skua |
Gavin and Jordon doing an art lesson
Cierva Cove zodiac cruise
Beautiful icebergs sculptured by nature
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| I loved this arch with the iceberg behind |
Leopard seal
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| This leopard seal was skinning a penguin it had caught by shaking it violently. |
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| Little birds were flittering above the fray, hoping to catch some scraps. |
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Gentoo penguins
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| Swimming Gentoos |
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| Leaping from rock to rock |
Sunset from the ship
