Day 20: Disembark in Urshaia

We disembarked early in the morning. We went for a stroll by the water before saying a sad farewell to Jordan.  Later in the day, we went for a hike up the slopes of a local mountain. Lovely to stretch our legs.

Climbing a local mountain

Day 5: Lemaire Channel, Yalour Islands & Petermann Island

Tanya's Diary 

Today we were up bright and early, with the expedition leader, Christian, making a special call over the tannoy at 5:45am to hustle us out of our beds and onto the upper viewing deck. From there, we watched on as the Captain carefully manoeuvred us through the Lemaire Channel. With our steaming hot cups of coffee warming our hands, we took in the sights as we sailed by, marvelling at the towering basalt mountains and glaciers as the sun slowly rose behind them, casting a rosy hue across the sky. What a beautiful way to start the day.

After breakfast, it was straight into the activities for us. The Frosty Five geared up and headed out onto the Zodiac for a cruise around Yalour Island. We managed to snag the lovely Hannah as our Zodiac driver, and utilised our time with her to record an absolute gem of a lesson on leopard seals. We started recording and in a moment that seemed straight out of a movie, as Gavin spoke the words “…and here we have one of the apex predators of this region, the mighty leopard seal…” – a giant 3.5 metre leopard seal leapt out of the water, as if responding to his cue!!

The morning was off to a brilliant start, and we managed to record a couple more videos, including one with Young Art USA’s Jordan C Brun about the colour contrast between black and white: recorded in front of a colony of Adelie penguins. We also got to spend some time on Yalour Island where we saw several thousand more Adelie penguins (I’ve given up counting) and our photographer Graeme Myburgh took some absolutely stunning close-ups of the penguins, showing off their unique-seeming personalities.

After lunch we were back again at the ready, for another outing to another island – Petermann Island. Here, we trekked up the snowy mountainside and found ourselves in front of an Adelie penguin creche, where our videographer, Matt Iuliano of Wildhearts Creative Media, recorded a lesson with Upschool’s Gavin McCormack on how leadership within penguin colonies reflects what we can be doing within our own communities to make a more sustainable world. We spent the remainder of the afternoon with Dr Karl, recording lessons for Upschool.co about the layers of the Earth.

With such an eventful day, it was great to be back aboard the ship to finish up with a lecture from Ella on the restoration of the ozone layer. We learned so much from her, including that since the 1987 release of the Montreal Protocol, the world has worked together to restore the hole that sits directly over the Antarctic continent.

It was an early night for all and we headed off to bed, looking forward to the next day and the next adventure.

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My Account

Early morning ship cruise through the Lemaire Channel

The Lemaire Channel is a narrow strait bordered by soaring ice-clad cliffs and glacial formations. This 11-kilometer-long and approximately 1.6-kilometer-wide passage provides a stunningly scenic route for expedition ships. Known for its mesmerizing landscapes, the Lemaire Channel has earned the nickname "Kodak Gap" due to its photogenic appeal.  Not only is it scenic, but the protected waters are usually as still as a lake, a rare occurrence in the storm-wracked southern seas.  We were lucky to have perfect weather during the early morning when we passed through. The cliffs were perfectly reflected in the water, providing wonderful photos. So beautiful!

 

Landing at Yalour Islands  

The Yalour Islands are a small group of islands located off the Antarctic Peninsula, near the western coast of Graham Land. They are known for their rich wildlife, particularly for their diverse penguin populations. Two notable species that inhabit these islands are the Adélie and Gentoo penguins. The Yalour Islands provide an ideal breeding ground for these penguins, as they offer a relatively ice-free environment and easy access to the sea for foraging. 

The Islands are scenically gorgeous with the most amazing mountainous backdrop. It was the perfect place to land and go for a walk in the snow.  

Back on the zodiacs  

From the zodiac, we have our first experience of a Leopard Seal 

A curious Leopard seal swam right up to our zodiac and popped its head out to check us out.  Then, for a number of minutes, it swam around us, viewing us from different angles. I was really excited as this was an animal I was really looking forward to seeing. 

Leopard seals are fascinating creatures. Here are some interesting facts about them:

• Leopard seals are the second-largest species of seal in the Antarctic, with males reaching up to 3.3 meters  in length and weighing well over 500 kilograms. They are named for their distinctive leopard-like markings, featuring dark gray or black spots and blotches on a lighter gray coat.
• Leopard seals are apex predators in the Antarctic ecosystem, feeding on a wide range of prey, including fish, squid, penguins, and even other seals. They have powerful jaws and sharp teeth designed to grip and tear through their prey.
• These seals have several specialized hunting strategies, such as ambushing penguins as they enter or exit the water or using their powerful jaws to create waves that knock unsuspecting birds off ice floes.
• Leopard seals are known for their remarkable vocalizations, which include a variety of grunts, growls, and even haunting underwater songs. These sounds may be used for communication, territory defense, or attracting mates.
• Unlike many other seal species, leopard seals are primarily solitary animals. They are known to be highly territorial and will defend their hunting grounds against intruders.
• Leopard seals have a unique breeding system, with females giving birth to a single pup on the ice during the austral summer (December to February). Males establish territories near the birthing sites and use their vocalizations to attract females.
• Leopard seals can live for up to 26 years in the wild. They have few natural predators, with killer whales being their primary threat. However, they face growing challenges from climate change, which is impacting their icy habitat, and from entanglement in fishing gear.
• They are one of the few marine mammals that consume a wide variety of prey, including krill, fish, penguins, and even other seals. Their elongated, serpentine bodies and powerful jaws enable them to hunt efficiently. 

All in all, Leopard seals are formidable apex predators and a little scary, especially when they come close even though, in human history, they have only been known to kill a single person!

Approaching land where we would get off

Our first sighting of Adelie Penguins

This was the second species of penguin we experienced in The Antarctic.  Adélie penguins are medium-sized penguins characterized by their white front and black back, with distinctive white rings around their eyes. To me, they look like they are wearing a tuxedo.  Exceedingly cute!

Here are some interesting facts about them:

• Adélie penguins are phenomenal swimmers, reaching speeds of up to 45 km/h  and diving to depths of over 180 meters in pursuit of krill and fish.
• They build their nests using small stones, which are a limited and valuable resource in their environment. This leads to stone-stealing behavior, where penguins often "borrow" stones from their neighbors' nests when they aren't looking.
• Adélie penguins are highly social animals and form large colonies, sometimes numbering in the hundreds of thousands. These colonies help protect the penguins from predators and keep them warm in the harsh Antarctic climate.
• These penguins are known for their strong homing instincts and remarkable navigation abilities. Researchers have found that they can find their way back to their nests from up to 13 km away.
• Adélie penguins are considered an indicator species for climate change, as their breeding and feeding habits are closely linked to the availability of sea ice. As global temperatures rise and sea ice diminishes, their populations are closely monitored to assess the impact on Antarctic ecosystems.
• They are named after Adélie Land, a region of Antarctica claimed by France and discovered by the French explorer Jules Dumont d'Urville, who named it after his wife, Adèle. 

Antarctic skuas

Skuas are large, predatory seabirds known for their aggressive behaviour and relentless pursuit of other seabirds, particularly penguins, for food. 

Here are some interesting facts about skuas and their relationship with penguins:

• Skuas are opportunistic predators, meaning they will take advantage of any available food source. While their diet mainly consists of fish and other marine life, they are also known to prey on penguin eggs and chicks, making penguin colonies an attractive feeding ground for skuas.
• Skuas are also known for their kleptoparasitic behavior, meaning they steal food from other birds, including penguins. They will often harass penguins until they regurgitate their food, which the skuas then consume.
• Skuas exert significant predatory pressure on penguin populations, particularly during the breeding season. This has led to the evolution of various defensive strategies in penguins, such as forming dense breeding colonies and using vigilance and mobbing behaviors to protect their eggs and chicks.
• Skuas use a variety of calls to communicate with each other and intimidate their prey. They often emit a loud, harsh call when approaching penguin colonies, which can cause panic among the penguins and make it easier for the skuas to target their prey.

A stunning backdrop

Going for a walk in the snow

View of our ship from the land

Doing lessons on the zodiac 

Doing lessons on the ice

 

Landing at Petermann Island

Petermann Island is a small, remote island located off the western coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.  It is a popular breeding ground for Adélie and Gentoo penguins. These penguins come to the island each year during the summer months  to breed and raise their chicks.

The island is characterised by its icy terrain and glaciers, which provide a stunning backdrop. The landscape is composed of rocks, ice, and a few patches of vegetation, such as mosses and lichens.

The Island can only be reached by boat. This remoteness adds to the island's appeal, as it remains relatively untouched by human influence.

Gentoo Penguins

More wonderful Gentoo penguins and I was thrilled to get two of my favourite photos of them here: a mother feeding its chick and a penguin staring at one of our orange flags.

A mother feeds a juvenile

Penguin researching humans.

A juvenile playing with a feather

A Gentoo doing an "ecstatic display" as part of its mating ritual

Adelie Penguins

Antarctic Skuas

Always on the look out for an opportunistic meal!

Sheathbill

Snowy Sheathbills are unique and fascinating birds found in Antarctica. They are the only land birds native to Antarctica. 

Here are some cool facts about sheathbills:

• Unlike most other birds in the Antarctic region, sheathbills do not have webbed feet. They are terrestrial birds, which means they are adapted for walking on land rather than swimming.
• Snowy Sheathbills are unique among Antarctic birds in that they do not migrate to warmer climates during the winter. Instead, they remain in the Antarctic region year-round, moving between the Antarctic Peninsula and nearby sub-Antarctic islands in search of food.
• Sheathbills are opportunistic feeders and will eat a wide variety of food sources. Their diet includes invertebrates, fish, carrion, and even the feces of other animals, such as seals and penguins. They are also known to steal food from other birds and occasionally prey on penguin eggs and chicks.
• Sheathbills get their name from the horny sheath-like covering on their bills, which helps protect the bill when foraging for food in rocky environments.
• Sheathbills have a unique behavior of self-cleaning, which is essential for maintaining their white plumage. They will regularly preen themselves and rub their feathers against their surroundings, like snow or water, to remove dirt and stains.

Weddell seal basking on the ice

Weddell seals are unique marine mammals found in the Southern Ocean, particularly in the Antarctic region.  Here are some fascinating facts about these creatures:

• Weddell seals are the southernmost breeding mammals in the world. They inhabit the Antarctic continent and surrounding islands.
• They are particularly skilled at living in the harsh Antarctic environment, often found on or under the sea ice.
• They seals are exceptional divers. They can dive to depths of over 600 meters and hold their breath for up to 90 minutes.
• Their teeth have a unique shape that helps them maintain breathing holes in the ice. They use their canine teeth to scrape and maintain access to air even when the ice is thick.
• Weddell seals have an extensive vocal repertoire, using underwater calls for communication, navigation, and possibly mate selection.
• Female Weddell seals give birth to a single pup each year during the Antarctic spring. The pups can swim shortly after birth and are weaned after only 6-7 weeks.
• Weddell seals have a relatively long lifespan compared to other seals, living up to 30 years or more.
• The main natural predators of Weddell seals are orcas and leopard seals. However, climate change and loss of sea ice habitat pose significant threats to their survival.

Single, original photos

• Single, original photos