Exploring islands on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca (Ally)

Entering Peru

Our trip crossing the bus border from Bolivia to Peru was a beautiful bus journey mainly along the lake shores where we saw all the subsistence farms and animals. There were no fences and the bus driver had to slow down a couple of times as animals were crossing the road for a juicy bit of grass on the other side.

The customs checks are just outside of Puno and our bus was searched and they found a suspicious box (which of-course belonged to no one). So we were held up for 45 minutes while the bus driver had to talk to the officials. We finally got to Puno and found it to be much more pleasant that all the harsh stories we had heard about it. The main tourist street was bustling with many delicious restaurants and we tucked into a three course meal and drink for $4 each.

We booked a tour to the floating islands and two other islands including a stay with a family on one of the islands.

The Floating Islands

The harbour from where we embarked was thick with with green scum which I would have hated to swim in but it excited G photographically.

Our visit to the floating islands was very interesting. They created this way of living as a way of escaping the attacks of the Inca´s. Now they are besieged each day by hundreds of tourists each day, fascinated by their strange choice of home.

The reed roots (which float) are harvested and form the base of the island. Then layer upon layer of reeds are added to form the top. All the huts are also made from reeds although I noted that they do use plastic under the reed roofs to prevent the rain coming through. I was intrigued when I went into a house. It is only one room, they have electricity from solar panels and a TV (which they were proud of). 7 people stay in one room and all the clothes are hung on pegs. What little books and goods they had were on one shelf.

The locals cook outside (for obvious safety reasons). The main income is from tourists who come and buy their handmade goods. But they do fish and dry them for leaner times. They also have ducks which swim in home made ponds in the middle of their island.

The locals were very friendly and beautifully dressed in traditional costumes.

Russell purveying the scene

For the tourists they have built a big dragon boat out for reeds so we just had to have a ride. Russel even had a go at rowing. We saw a boat crammed with Japanese tourists on a similar boat and they all had their cameras out taking pictures of us. Graeme promptly snapped a shot of them.

G saw an enclosure and it was just filled with guinea pigs. They are the national Peruvian dish. They looked so cute altogether that it was hard to imagine them as a meal. But no doubt Russel and G will give it a try soon.

G spotted this little fellow peaking out of a reed basket. Adorable.

Amantani Island

It was a long boat trip to the first solid land island during which many people felt a bit sea sick. We were greeted at the peer by all the families that were going to host us and they did a dance for us on the shore.


We went and had lunch with our family and met everyone. Then our guide gave us a talk on how they farm and what kind of produce they harvest. It ranges from grains, corn, beans and many different types of potatoes. They dry the potatoes to use during the winter.

And I got to feed a lamb - one of my favourite activities in the world.


G and R went on a sucessful geo-caching hunt which entailed walking up two mountains at over 4000m. They were extremely tried and did quite fancy going to bed but there was still dancing to come. They did the say the sunset was beautiful from the hill though, and the photos back it up.

We got dressed up as the locals do and then we danced a rather vigorous routine to pan flutes and drums. We were totally breathless after one tune!! At about 9:30pm we noticed that our family were just about dead on their feet with tiredness - which was a great excuse for us to say we should actually head off to bed.
Here is Graeme jigging with a young local. As you can see, we had to wear local costumes to the "island disco".



The poor mom we stayed with was breast feeding, had two more kids aged 9 and 10, worked the farm and did all the cooking and then on top of it had to entertain 3 tourists with cooking and dancing. Next time I think I am having a hard time of things, I will remember her.

We really did get to see a slice of life that is so alien to the western ideal. The whole family slept in one room, no electricity, cooking was done on a very smoky hearth and the food was mainly soup, rice and potatoes. The mom was probably my age but looked about 15 years older. But we were met with nothing but warmth, smiles and concern. Staying with the family and playing with the baby was a highlight for me. In fact G made a real hit with the two year old niece as he entertained her with the clips of his trouser leg. I think they really lack stimulation as they have no toys - not even isalnd made ones.


They dress so smartly in hand sewn scarves and blouses. I loved seeing how they hand wove their fabric and their hand knitted hats. It took me back to my fiber art matric subject which I absolutely loved. (I got to do hand weaving, loom weaving, batik and fabric printing). I must look for something arty that I can do in Oz as I do find it so fulfilling.

Taquili Islands

After a heartfelt goodbye to our family at the dock we made our way to the next island. It was the most the beautiful island with flowers around the terraces and everybody said "hola" as we went past. They were also dressed in traditional outfits but they took it much more seriously than the other island - they all wore the outfits appropriate to their station.

G bought a Peruvian hat from the handcrafts shop. We later learnt that on this island it is the men who knit. We saw two boys and they were using 6 very narrow needles to make the traditional hats. So now both G and I have a traditional hat. His by a man and mine by a women.

We walked back to boat down 600 Inca steps and the views were spectacular. I especially liked the arches that were built at strategic places almost to make you stop your decent and look. I would love to have spent the afternoon just relaxing in the sun and taking in the view.