Life Trove: South Africa 2012

I had 20 minutes to get to the camp before the gates closed for the evening (and I didn't want to arrive late and get fined, as they do in the Kruger) when I came across this formidable character. It had just knocked a tree over part of the road and was munching on its leaves. When I edged forward to try to pass, it stopped eating and glared at me. I edged forward in another attempt, and this time its glare was even fiercer and its ears flapped, a sure sign of aggression. I've never felt so indecisive in my life! I could have reversed my route, but that would have taken over an hour to drive. After much gnashing of teeth, I reminded myself that fortune favours the brave and I went for it, making it past the bull - to it's considerable annoyance. I could swear it feigned at me with it's tusks as I past, but I can't be sure as I was too busy accelerating.

All the time this happened, I kept wondering what the insurance company of my rental car would say about a tusk wound through the right rear door. Thankfully, I didn't need to find out!

Needless to say, I took a photo of the elephant for memory's sake. Doesn't it look scary?

Since returning home, I've discovered that several motorists in The Kruger were not as lucky. If I'd known at the time, I might not have been so assertive! Here are some photos of past encounters.

And some You-Tube videos of close encounters!

Ever since I got my digital camera in 2006, it’s been a dream of mine to go on an extended safari and take photos of some of my favourite animals and birds on the African bush. Well, some dreams do come true. I have just returned from three weeks camping in the Kruger and it was absolutely unforgettable – an experience I will savour for a long time.

Here are some of the highlights of my trip:

Travelling the full length of the Kruger from South to North (over 350 km’s) and staying in 6 camps along the way.
Seeing a solitary, somewhat bedraggled (it was pouring with rain) but nevertheless exciting lion within 5 minutes of driving into the park.
The exceptional beauty of the far north (Parfuri region) with its lush river ways, baobab trees and abundant bird life.
Four sightings of my favourite African animal – the leopard. The first sighting was a teasing tail disappearing into the bush, the second sighting was a leopard crossing the road at pace, but on the third sighting, a regal, magnificent, fearless male came right up to my car window, something I’ll never forget. It was well worth the three and a half hour wait for him to come out from under the bush where he had been resting all afternoon.
Getting photos of some of my favourite African birds, including four types of Kingfisher, Giant Eagle Owl, European Bee-Eater and Lilac Breasted Roller.
Watching some titanic clashes, including two rampaging hippos tear into each other and two male Kudus locking horns.
The hive of activity at The Lake Picnic bird hide, situated on a beautiful lake, with wallowing hippos, basking crocodiles, malachite kingfishers flitting from branch to branch like little jewels, jacanas trotting from lily to lily and masked weavers frantically building their nests. So active, yet deeply peaceful. Unless you happen to be the photographer who dropped his $15,000 telephoto lens and camera into the water from the hide window a week before I was there!
Watching a large herd of buffalo on the way to Satara. I felt like I was in the Serengetti during migration.
Waking up to a crescendo of bird calls coming from outside the tent – the daily morning chorus of the African bush.
Listening to the soul enriching sounds of The Kruger. To me, this is epitomized by the furtive cry of the Fish Eagle, the hooting of the Burchel’s Coucal, the strident “Piet My Vrou’s” of the Red Chested Cuckoo, the indignant “Go Aways” of the Grey Lourie, the bellows of the wallowing hippos and the roars of lions outside the camp at night. Sounds I’ll never grow tired of.
Seeing African Wild Dog on my very last game drive in the park. I had made peace with the fact I wouldn’t see them. And then, there they were, just 10 minutes from returning to camp. Great excitement!
Lots of time to think and reflect on life. I took a journal and filled it up with musings.
A call from my wonderful mum at 6 pm every night and reminiscing about my day.
Meeting some lovely people in the camps – especially sharing stories with fellow twitchers about the megaticks we’d seen and dreamed of seeing.
Every so often, treating myself to a succulent steak at the camp restaurant, after many nights of tuna and pasta.
Meeting up with Jo in Joberg for a night on my way back to Sydney. It was so awesome to spend such quality time with her. It made me forget that my holiday was at an end.

Some challenges along the way

Driving and looking for animals at the same time. I could have done with a dedicated spotter!
Waking up in the middle of the night to find a giant millipede climbing over my leg. I just about woke up the camp with my high pitched screams.
Getting naked into my sleeping bag to discover it contained nasty, aggressive ‘ball-biter” ants. So now I know where they got their name!
A mini typhoon with deafening wind that tore down my tent, followed by an uncomfortable night in the car. The wind was so strong that the car rocked to and fro.
An encounter with an aggressive bull elephant – see related post here.

All in all, a wonderful experience. I highly recommend The Kruger if you haven’t been. Hope you enjoy the photos!

Leopard

Lion

Cheetah

Wild dog

Hyena

Elephant

Rhino

Hippo

Zebra

Giraffe

Buffalo

Impala

Kudu

Nyala

Waterbuck

Bushbuck

Wildebeest

Duiker

Baboon

Vervet Monkey

Warthog

Squirrel

Dwarf Mongoose

Dung Beetle

Crocodile

Lizard

Babies of the Kruger

Being Spring, many of the animals had babies. Gorgeous, they were. Watching the tenderness and devotion that many of the parents showed to their youngsters, be they hyenas, zebras or monkeys, was uplifting and profound. In one of the wildlife documentaries I saw in camp one night, a mother baboon in a tree lost hold of her baby during the panic of a leopard attack, and it fell to its death. For three full days, she carried her baby's crumpled body everywhere you went, continuing to cradle it and groom it, before eventually letting go. Parental love is clearly the domain of not not just us humans.